Find the silver rating label, probably under the hatch as said. 9 digit serial number, first 2 digits are the year, second 2 are the week number
Printable View
Mines a 105, the old version of yours.. this MIGHT work...
Go to your menu
Press and hold 7 + 9
"Expert mode" appears and a new icon.
In there, in the 1st option "General" I can see the exact production date of mine.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d64c0f74_b.jpg
Lots of other goodies in there too if you're interested :eagerness:
Thank you all who advised the info required.
Kind Regards,
Tamtoot.
Any Flymo 1200R owners? I bought an ex display unit from B&Q ages ago and never got round to using it (pending some work to be complete in the garden first). Like everyone else being home alot has meant more opportunity to catch up with life tasks so I got the mower out at the weekend to test it was working. Base out, charged battery, tried to launch the mower and nada.
Can anyone who owns one advise, to get the mower to work do I need to lay the boundary wire first and connect this correctly before the mower will set off or should I be able to literally take out the box and set it on its way?
You should have got a couple of hundred plastic pegs which you can use to pin the wire down.
I’ve buried my perimeter wire but I pegged the guide wire because I didn’t want to cut right through the middle of the lawn
Today I wanted to adjust the guide wire a tad after installing a garage for the mower. The grass had grown over it so well I couldn’t actually see where it went.
Yes those bits are there in the box, I'll get out there this weekend and peg it all out and test it and bury it once it's all working as expected. Got my carpenter making me a mower garage during lockdown based on a Robohut so last thing to sort before I can sit back finally and drink beer rather than heave the Lawnmower around.
Leave loops in strategic places in case you get a cut in the wire, my mower pulled up a wire then chopped it up when I first installed it and I had to repair it.
Repairs are simple btw
Solder, heatshrink and self amalgamating tape and Bobs your uncle.
Or just use the blue terminal block connectors that come in the box, intended for splicing a guide wire into the perimeter wire. Put your 2 broken ends in to any 2 of the 3 holes, press blue top down, done, then bury the block slightly. I've got 3 such patches in my boundary now
How likely is it to cut a wire? If buried, are they not buried far enough down?
Some inspiration for you... my neighbour's Flymo in his house!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...08a17b48_b.jpg
If buried, you wont get a break.
I had pegged my wires on the surface. For me, my lawn was DEEP in moss. I started cutting with the robot and each week, dropped the cutting height lower and lower. It was then, with the lawn getting short and moss free that my wires started to snag on the mower.
Now though, you couldn't find the wires if you tried. They disappear into the mulch over a couple of months.
It can happen. I pegged mine out, it soon disappears into the lawn and as said above it can be a bugger to find again it you need to, no real need to bury it. First month, before it had sunk in, our neighbor helpfully decided to strim our edge near the back gate while he was doing his, wiped out 3ft of wire with his brush cutter. He was mortified, I fixed it in 2 mins, 3ft length of new wire, 2 of the blue connectors, done. 2 years on, no more issues until I went to start it up again this year, flashing light on charger station, so break in boundary. Took a walk round the boundary and found the culprit, dogs had dug a hole in a corner and cut through the wire, another blue connector and off she goes
My current mower is getting temperamental (Bosch cordless) so a robot replacement sounds like the way to go.
One question, how does a robot mower cope with pine cones. I also have five-a-side football goals that get moved around so has anyone dealt with the nets not being eaten by the mower?
My garden needs a mower like this but it would need to be quite strong to handle the slopes etc. how are these things at handling slopes etc?
It will depend on how big the pine cones are. Mowers have a front bumper ground clearance of around 50mm. If they're big enough and your lawn flat enough, they would probably just get pushed around. If smaller than 50mm, they will go under and get chopped, probably not good for the cutting blades or the motor. If they are a bit bigger than 50mm, they could get stuck under the front bumper, the mower will stop and give a lift error, then need manually restarting.
One option, depending on the size of your lawn, is not to have the mower set on a timer, just go out, do a pinecone sweep, then send the mower out manually., This is what i do as i have to do a sweep for dog eggs, dog and kids toys and make sure the wife hasn't left a duvet on the washing line that's touching the grass (yes that did happen once, messy). I have a fairly small garden and a massively over spec'd 430X, so i only need to send it out for an hour or 2 twice a week. If you're lawn is up near max capacity of your chosen mower, then it will need to be out mowing almost constantly, so the manual start will not be an option.
For the football goal, it will chew up the net (and duvets), so the options you have there are
1) If you're doing a manual start as described above, just move them out of the mower zone before you send it out
2) Pick a permanent site for the goals and lay your boundary wire around them, you can lay the wire into the goal itself so that will get cut, but you'd have long grass growing around the frame and back of the net, but you could move the goal and strim that every now and again?
Depends how steep the slopes are and where they are.
Too steep and you get wheel spin, which will create bald patches over time
Official spec is standard Husqvarna models can handle 15-25deg within the working area, depending on the model, reducing to 8deg at the boundary where it has to turn around and reverse alot.
If you need more than that, then remortgage the house and get a 435X, it has drive to all 4 wheels and can handle 35deg in the work area and 25deg at the boundary.
I can’t vouch for this but I saw the ad. for it the other day and noticed it specifically mentions hills so it might be worth some research.
https://www.myrobotcenter.co.uk/en_g...RoC9zkQAvD_BwE
If you have a garden with significant slopes - see HERE.
Great info thanks.
I have Greenthumb coming next week to assess my lawn and I am more than likely to get them to do the scarifiying and lawn treatments. I can then line up getting a robot mower.
My lawn is a bit bumpy, my thinking is the robot mower will help fix that (will see what Greenthumb say too as they may advocate sand and topsoil leveling too).
I have a TP-Link smart plug powering my automower docks ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Req...9293838&sr=8-1 )
It switches the mower docking stations off at midnight but switching ON is manually set, via the Kasa app on my phone.
It would work well here too - cast your eye out the window and if the goals/nets are out of the way.... tap "on" and close the blinds!
Good day all,
Have any of you Automower owners arranged insurance? I tried to get though to my home insurer who seems to be on customer lockdown..so no joy there.
I have read that some insurers do and others don't.
Grateful for your advice,
Thank you,
Tamtoot
Does anyone have a Worx Landroid M500 and advise how good they are?
I have the larger L1500 version.
It's been mostly brilliant. I added the 'Find my Landroid' 4G module and also the 'Off-limits' and ACS (Anti-collision system) to it as well. I laid the boundary wire myself.
Fors:
Very quiet
Covers the whole lawn after a few days - I've left in 'auto' schedule mode and it does a really good job supposed using 'AI',
Does get close to the borders and can handle steep slopes... in a straight line.
Copes with 'Islands' very well
Worx support has been excellent with questions
Battery lasts well and recharges quickly.
Got a good 'Deal of the Day' on Amazon when I purchased so significantly cheaper than the Husq 430X I was previously considering
Against:
I have a steep slope in a couple of parts of the garden and when climbing the slope and turning at the same time it does lose traction and rear wheels dig into the ground, and once they've dug in it repeats the problem every few days as it's created a rut.
Because it does 'Cut to the edge' you have to be very careful with the boundary wire spacing to the edge and follow the spacing instructions explicitly.
The add-on's probably should have been standard, but then the base price would have been higher and at least it's your choice.
The Off-limits add on is hit+miss if it works and I wouldn't bother with it again.
For the price, it's been excellent and hard to fault and having a robot mower has returned a lot of time to me that would have been spent mowing. I suspect the Husq would have been better still - but it was a lot more money for something I was unsure if would really work for me and the Landroid was less than half the price but I suspect 80-90% of the ability. If you have a straightforward, flat(ish) garden then I doubt the Husq would have any additional benefit.
Two tips - 1) make sure you have some waterproof cable joiners (3M ones work great) and 2) put some 'loops' in the boundary cable at strategic points around your garden. Both of these will mean when you (probably inevitably) break the boundary wire you have quick easy way to repair or indeed modify the boundary layout.
Hope that helps,
B
Yeah, fair point on the coverage ability, I think you'd need to compare with the 315X if you added the 'Find My Landroid GPS' option to your Landroid to make it closer equivilent.
I reckon if you shop around you should be able to get the Landroid+bits cheaper than the 315 and definitely the 315X... certainly the deal I got, granted Amazon deal of the day, and buying the add-on's from a couple of other, better priced websites meant I got it all combined for over £200 less than the best price that i've seen for the 315. So not the 430X difference saving level granted, but still cheaper and with much the same functionality.... but no headlights! :(
I guess for the M500 the comparison would be more the Husq 105?
Our local Rugby club has a massive yolk on the main pitch. Does a fine job. Must be a metre long.
Any idea what make it is? Is it one of these ugly brutes?
https://www.belrobotics.com/en-gb/mo...onnected-line/
Currently interested in big robot mowers
Very interesting thread.
I’m just in the process of finishing the landscaping of my 1 acre garden (after building a new house). Very first grass cut happened last week!
It’s a challenging site, with some big slopes (actually barely any flat ground) and two areas (but could be linked across a gravel drive).
I’ve got quotes to keep the lawn under control which are broadly £150-200 a month for fortnightly mows. I’ve certainly not got the time (or equipment) to do it myself.
Beginning to wonder if the 435x is a viable alternative?
Cutting a lawn every two weeks will not result in a good looking lawn, it's just not frequent enough during the growing seasons. I suspect the 435X would cover your sloping lawns but I'd be tempted to visit your local Husqvarna dealer with some photographs of the lawns and ask them to do a site visit to advise prior to purchase and installation.
There are a few threads here on Robotic Mowers and if you look at the photographs you'll see how good the lawns look when using them. Happy to advise on Husqvarna models, I have two.
An acre might be a bit of a stretch for the 435x, especially with slopes and other complexities thrown in. The rated max area is 3500m2, but that assumes a flat open plan lawn, slopes and narrow passages will reduce the max area it can cover. You could always buy 2?
I was set to buy one for our small lawn - it suffers from brown patches and dries out very quickly (London on clay soil), but I had a lawn expert round to quote for sorting the patches out. He recommended against a robot mower due to the thatch they leave behind - he took some core samples and showed me the thatch we already have is stopping water getting to the soil and said this will just get worse with a robot mower. He did say the random pattern would benefit the grass, and I don’t fancy replicating that’s with a petrol mower!
I gave it a good rake (backbreaking!) and got a whole bin full of thatch and will scarify in the autumn - but I don’t want to undo this by getting a new gadget!
Is this nonsense - have I misunderstood? Do the cuttings genuinely rot away? Perhaps it’s something to get once I’ve scarified rather than before?
Robots cut little and often, a couple of mm at a time, so you won't get thatch building up as that's with longer cuttings, plenty of before and after pics on this thread that show the improvement. You're far more likely to get thatch build up cutting weekly with a conventional mower, even though it collects cuttings, plenty of those long cuttings will be left on the lawn, as evidenced by your current thatch situation. It is generally recommended to scarify before installing a robot.
It's nonsense; he clearly doesn't know what he's talking about and has little, if any, first-hand experience of robotic mowers. The thatch build up in my lawn prior to scarifying and installing the robotic mower was significant. Now, after 3 years with the first mower there is zero thatch build up.