Omega/ ETA Quartz movements - update - it arrived…

Calling those who might know something about the Omega Seamaster 120m quartz ‘Calypso III’.

I’ve just won the auction for this in Japan, but as often with these things, there is very little information and I’ve bought it based on pictures alone. The dial, glass, and bezel all look pretty good, as does the case. The strap has rather more of the PVD coating missing than I’d really desire, but I have decided I don’t mind giving the price I paid. I intend to use this as a daily wear so I don’t really mind a bit of scuffing.

My anxiety is around the movement. The only pic is blurry, and possibly has hints of green making me wonder if there may have been a battery leak. It may or may not work [emoji2371]

I’ve done a little research. The cal.1432 Omega movement is based on the ETA255.111, which is by no means rare (or special). It looks like if I didn’t mind losing the word ‘Omega’ from the plastic internal plate I could probably replace the whole movement for 50 quid - Bulova one pictured. Longines and a few others also used this eta calibre.

Question for the learned gentry. Would it be a simple as I think just to drop a new movement in or would there be different dimensions on the hands/dial, fixings etc or other things I haven’t thought of? It doesn’t appear that Omega have finessed the movement itself at least from what I can see from better quality photos of other Calypso IIIs for sale.

Thanks in advance if anyone has any information they would be willing to share. Otherwise, I’ll update this myself in future with my findings!

EDIT. It needs a bloody good clean! Urgh


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I am far from an expert but I think the height of the hands sit at can some times be an issue
That is a good looking watch (or it will be once it’s had a clean) unfortunately it has an odd lug / strap attachment which means you cannot use other straps but with a clean up it should look presentable.

Be aware as well that often bracelet on watches coming from Japan are really short!’

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Originally Posted by ktmog6uk

Be aware as well that often bracelet on watches coming from Japan are really short!’

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Yeah…. I’m a little anxious about that too. Goodness knows how I’d even start a search for extra links but I think I could replace the folding clasp fairly easily to make it longer if needed.

It’ll probably owe me somewhere just south of £350 once in hand, so for a working Omega I’d happily spend a little more…but it won’t feel like good value if I have to start spending everywhere!

[EDITED]

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Was the watch sold as working, or is that an unknown entity?

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Originally Posted by ben4watches

Was the watch sold as working, or is that an unknown entity?

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Completely unknown. Total punt.
[emoji1787][emoji1787]


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Originally Posted by chrisgillett

Completely unknown. Total punt.
[emoji1787][emoji1787]


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Wow, braver man than me :very_drunk:

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Originally Posted by ben4watches

Wow, braver man than me :very_drunk:

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I’ve done well from gambles like this in the past… but always worth making a plan… hence the questions about a drop in donor movement! [emoji2957]


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I like that rather a lot and it seems to be quite a difficult watch to find much about. This seems to be the Omega link:

https://www.omegawatches.com/de-de/w...ii-sr-396-0975

SR seems to be the PVD case and ST the plain steel version. It seems very difficult to find any info about the bracelet reference which would potentially help with links.

I think you should be safe to order a replacement ETA movement but I see there are also spare Omega calibres available on Ebay, albeit at a higher price. My experience with quartz Universal Geneve is that the only difference is the name on the bridge but then UG were already in decline and doing the very minimum to get a watch out of the door whereas I suppose it's possible Omega might still have tried to customise something and this could trip you up.

Looks like there is a bracelet reference here: 1422/079

https://omegaforums.net/threads/seam...content.10864/

https://omegaforums.net/proxy.php?im...d1b4280eb378da

Regarding the movement, I certainly wouldn't look at swapping it, that should be a last resort and it's a decision to be taken by a repairer based on the condition and problems affecting the original.

Canon pinion, hr wheel and centre seconds wheel heights can vary, the original parts might need swapping over even if a replacement movement is obtained.

Generally, if the circuitry is still functioning a quartz movement of this type can be brought back to life by a straightforward stripdown, clean, and reassembly. Even if the circuit is non-functional it might be more sensible to swap this out for another.

My advice is to send the watch to a repairer who can be trusted not to rip you off. Given the age of the watch it's also wise to check the water resistance, if the crown or caseback seal have deteriorated it'll be zero and that'll have to be addressed.

Thank you both for the help. Hoping to have it in a day or so… battery is ready then we’ll know!


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One thing I don`t like about ETA movements is the exposed coil, there is a guard piece that gives some protection but it's not enough. Touch it with a metal tool and it's likely to be ruined, the lacquer insulation on the wire gets damaged and the coil won't work. Damage can occur when batteries are being swapped by ham-fisted individuals, it happens.

Some quartz movements have the coil encased in a wax-like soft plastic, far better IMO.

Morning!

It arrived…

Externally it’s a little dirty… but nothing a bit of TLC won’t cure. Inside it appears mint. I’ve put a new battery in and it sprang to life. So while I’m pleased that the hands are moving it’s going at approximately double speed.

Is there a switch or setting that I just need to tweak or does this need a proper going over by someone who knows what they’re doing?
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Only just fits my wrist so now I need to keep my eyes open for a single extra link… Rocking horse [emoji90]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...450c7ff3ab.jpg
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That’s lovely ! Hope you get it sorted.

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Originally Posted by Alansmithee

That’s lovely ! Hope you get it sorted.

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Thanks! Intended to be my daily once it’s done. Worst case as I said, I’ll swap it out for a replacement Omega movement. I’m really hoping it’ll be an easy fix….
First advice from my service man was it could be the CMOS which might be easily transplantable from a donor movement. That however, is beyond my experience, and I’d see myself easily fucking it up!


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Update here for anyone that is following or interested in future.

I’ve been advised that the easiest/most cost effective option is to just replace the entire PCB as it’s a readly available and inexpensive part (£30!) that comes with a new coil and everything else. Hopefully it will remove all concerns about any/all of the electronic parts. It seems pretty simple as it just sits on top of the existing mechanical movement. I won’t have to remove the crown, mechanism, or go anywhere near the dial side.
I watched a YouTube video of someone doing it and I think it’s five screws that are all visible in this picture then it just lifts out. Put the new one in and then replace the five screws.
#itwillbeeasy
#famouslastwords

I’ve got one on the way. Watch this space…

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I think I tried to tell you that. No idea what your skill level is, but I strongly advise taking great care doing this job. Even with 12 years experience with watch repairs I still put my ‘ game face’ on when handling these things, so easy to damage them.

Your choice, but it might’ve been wiser to entrust the whole job to a repairer. Everything looks easy on U tube, I swapped the motor on a Dyson vac based on U tube videos, v. helpful but and it turned out a whole lot harder than it looked.

Can you post a picture of the clasp again - it looks like the picture from the OF link has disappeared. If you google "watch bracelet extender" there are all sorts of widgets you can get as an interim measure to make the bracelet more comfortable as you continue to spend your twilight hours searching for the real thing.

Looking at other issues like the grot and corrosion around the crown tube I would absolutely agree that getting this professionally serviced would be WAY more sensible. It's not just about timekeeping (which the new PCB may-or-may-not fix), but also about ensuring every part is working properly, avoiding further wear to components, stopping ongoing corrosion in its tracks, and at the very least that moisture can no longer penetrate internally, even if you can never fully restore its original full WR.

It's a great watch, worth ensuring it's as good as it can be.

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Originally Posted by earlofsodbury

Looking at other issues like the grot and corrosion around the crown tube I would absolutely agree that getting this professionally serviced would be WAY more sensible. It's not just about timekeeping (which the new PCB may-or-may-not fix), but also about ensuring every part is working properly, avoiding further wear to components, stopping ongoing corrosion in its tracks, and at the very least that moisture can no longer penetrate internally, even if you can never fully restore its original full WR.

It's a great watch, worth ensuring it's as good as it can be.

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Yep.......you can lead the horse to water but can’t make it drink.

Water resistance ( or lack of) needs to be addressed, the rest of the movement needs stripping, cleaning and re- oiling to ensure long- term reliability, that’s the sensible way to approach ownership.

Get it right and it’ll stay right, I’ve been collecting watches far longer than I’ve been working on them and that was always my approach.

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Originally Posted by walkerwek1958

Yep.......you can lead the horse to water but can’t make it drink.

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I hear you and do appreciate the advice. I intend to have this properly serviced for long term use, but researching and tinkering is part of the fun. I’ll have a greater sense of accomplishment and stonger bond with the watch if I’m the one to fix it. We’re not talking about high end haute-horology here, it’s a mass produced off the shelf movement from Omega’s darkest hours.


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Originally Posted by Carlton-Browne

Can you post a picture of the clasp again - it looks like the picture from the OF link has disappeared. If you google "watch bracelet extender" there are all sorts of widgets you can get as an interim measure to make the bracelet more comfortable as you continue to spend your twilight hours searching for the real thing.

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I can’t see that there is anything obviously missing, unless this watch has something on the strap that I’ve not come across before. I’ve gone a longer temporary clasp on the way. It won’t look quite as nice as the original, but at least I can wear it (once I get it working).

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Good for you for having a go, I’m a firm believer in trying, as you say it’s part of the fun and the satisfaction when it works out is priceless. If it doesn’t then you are no worse off than now. All the best and keep us updated, it’s a very cool watch.

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Originally Posted by JasonM

Good for you for having a go, I’m a firm believer in trying, as you say it’s part of the fun and the satisfaction when it works out is priceless. If it doesn’t then you are no worse off than now. All the best and keep us updated, it’s a very cool watch.

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Thanks!
I took the PCB off today just to check it wasn’t obviously gunked up underneath or showing evidence of battery leakage - pleasingly it looks clean and tidy - finally a win!
I was disappointed to find the PCB is a proper Omega branded piece - I thought there was a branded cover over a generic board but evidently not. A used branded Omega PCB is at least £100 on EBay so (assuming my generic one works) I’ve got to decide if I’m fussy enough to pay to make the internals look good. Given it’s a non-display caseback I’m leaning towards no, at least in the short term, which no doubt will upset the purists.
I did speak to my regular service man and he is happy to give it a proper service with new gaskets etc, but he has approx 6 month wait, so I might get in the queue and decide about an upgrade then.

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Why pay over the odds just to have an Omega symbol on the circuit? In the context of this type of watch it is immaterial.

My pre-Bond SMP has a 'standard' ETA movement after the thermocompensated original went kaput, the movement was built up by me using a new ETA 255 and the centre seconds, hr wheel and cannon pinion from the original, possibly it devalues the watch marginally but with 30+ year old quartz watches I don`t see how it matters much.

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Originally Posted by walkerwek1958

Why pay over the odds just to have an Omega symbol on the circuit? In the context of this type of watch it is immaterial.

My pre-Bond SMP has a 'standard' ETA movement after the thermocompensated original went kaput, the movement was built up by me using a new ETA 255 and the centre seconds, hr wheel and cannon pinion from the original, possibly it devalues the watch marginally but with 30+ year old quartz watches I don`t see how it matters much.

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It’s pretty much how I feel. This is a 40-year-old imperfect watch, which I plan on wearing. If I was worried about resale value I would’ve bought one in better condition start with.


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It’s alive!
Easy switch of the circuits; 5 screws in total then lift out/pop in.
It just about fits my wrist but on a hot day it won’t so I need that extension piece (and to keep my eyes open for another link).

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Excellent! Well done, a great result.

It’s straightforward provided you’re very careful.

Stripping these movements down to clean and re- oil isn’t too challenging, but getting the rotor and train wheels back in is tricky. the rotor is a tiny magnet and it tries to stick to the stator, putting a spare rotor at the back of it helps keep it upright when replacing the train wheel bridge. Very simple movements, apart from the circuit there’s nothing to go wrong, the pivots on the rotor can wear from lack of lubrication but I’ve never seen a bad one that wasn’t fit for use.

Kudos! Looks really good as well.

Great job.