40th birthday watch - inspire me please

Hoping I can get some inspiration on this fine forum, some of my criteria:

Budget up to around £10k

I live in London and tired of hiding the watch under the sleeve, so needs to be able to wear with a T shirt in summer without being worried of theft

Not Rolex due to above, or anything that can be mistaken for a Rolex

No larger than 40mm

New.

Some of my ideas so far:

BB54 - really like this and how it feels on wrist - but is it a bit Rolex-ish and therefore safety risk?

Cartier Santos steel bracelet Blue medium - again like it, but safety risk?

BP FF Bathyscaphe 38mm or GO SeaQ 39.5

Ruled Out below:

Speedmaster, Zenith EP - decided I’ve been here before and don’t want one

Seamaster and Aqua Terra

IWC Pilot, Portuguese

Sinn - got one already

Nomos - Thought about it, but no

Grand Seiko - not for me

If you don’t have massive wrists a 1016

Why don't you take a walk to the Grand Seiko Boutique on New Bond Steet, budget fits, quality is at level of the big tree, great choice of movements, spring drive or mechanical, go for 44GS case, take a look at the curves, you will be amazed. Not to memtion the dial choice, go for Mt Iwate pattern, They have some pretty nice choices... Most importantly is understated.

I'm summary, you will buy something for you to enjoy truly.



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Originally Posted by NikP

Why don't you take a walk to the Grand Seiko Boutique on New Bond Steet, budget fits, quality is at level of the big tree, great choice of movements, spring drive or mechanical, go for 44GS case, take a look at the curves, you will be amazed. Not to memtion the dial choice, go for Mt Iwate pattern, They have some pretty nice choices... Most importantly is understated.

I'm summary, you will buy something for you to enjoy truly.



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That’s a good call actually.
Well worth a look.

girard perregaux? Thinking that’s in price range and not your usual Rolex / Omega

Piaget Polo?

For my 40th I got a tag heuer Monaco blue face Steve McQueen and as I’m a year off my 50th will have to start thinking after seeing this thread

I love your BP, Cartier and GO-SQ suggestions so far (although I'd go white dial Santos medium).

I get it but it's a bloody shame you don't want a Rolex due to the theft risk. Someone mentioned the 1016. That's not a bad shout considering that it's an under the radar Rolex. In the same vein, I'd consider a nice late 114270 (wears better than the current 36mm Explorer due to 20mm bracelet imo) or for brand new, have a look at the OP 36 (or 41 if your wrists can take it. It's not actually 41mm it is in fact just inside your 40mm max limit. The OP41 is more versatile as it's more casual. I'm particularly taken with the silver dial. Classic Rolex but understated and under the radar).

Zenith are worth a look with the budget you have. There are a range of styles across the Pilot, Chronomaster and Defy, all at 40mm or smaller.

What about a birth year Tudor snowflake?

jlc master control date or vc fiftysix at a push?

My suggestions

* Omega Aqua Terra or others e.g. Seamaster 300m, possibly just outside your size specification but short lugs
* Bremont - check out ranges
* I'd suggest punching in your price range / criteria into Chrono24 or Watchfinder and get some inspiration that way?

Shame you are ruling out a Rolex DJ as that is what I would choose. I think the dangers in London are way over hyped due to social media - but that's another topic.

Good luck

Martyn

If you like the fit, a Reverso would make a special watch

"Budget up to around £10k

I live in London and tired of hiding the watch under the sleeve, so needs to be able to wear with a T shirt in summer without being worried of theft

Not Rolex due to above, or anything that can be mistaken for a Rolex"


That will be tough because many thieves know their watches I would imagine, not just Rolex and obvious ones.

If that is a real priority then I would get a PVD or DLC coated watch, they blend in much better with the Borg wearing all types of black looking watches.

Here's a parametric search adjusted for size, price, &c on C24 which excludes all the usual boring me-too brands.

Were I in this happy dilemma I'd be looking at L.U.C. Chopard, Glashütte Original, JLC and VC in their various dealerships - wearing is believing...

A CWC G10. No one will steal that.

If you were happy with something that wasn’t a sports watch, then i would go for something independent at this money for sure.

GO is a great choice, but it depends if you want a watch produced industrially, but to very high tolerances, or old school craft

I went Dornbluth for half your budget, but other interesting options are:

Kudoke K1
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c11ff399da.jpg


One of the more sober Garrick S6,although they can go a bit guilloche crazy and they are 41mm

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bd1f510523.jpg

Mine (40mm)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3f6e7b7829.jpg

D


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How about this? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d6a167e693.jpg
Or if you wanted something a bit different what about going to Bamford and customising something like a Monaco to suit your tastes


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Well, as I considered it myself lately, then Hentschel Hamburg and something from their H2 Sport (white or more expensive red are my favourites) range would be interesting choice.

https://hentschel-hamburg.com/

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix with a discount should be achievable.

Many thanks for all the suggestions, I’ve got a few months yet, keep them coming if there are more. Enjoying the pondering.

Left field choices

Hermes H08 in carbon or Bell & Ross BR-X5?

Think i want a carbon watch :smug:

Slightly over the budget, but perhaps the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve might meet the case.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...39814cc6aa.jpg

Seiko Turtle, "iced" up to budget / (lack of) taste. Presence of a Panerai, lug to lug of an Explorer.

I think these are spectacular, and can be had for around 10k - https://www.glashuette-original.com/...7-02-09-02-63/

Or a pre owned Chopard Alpine Eagle?

Would a Ressence slip into budget?

https://www.mrporter.com/variants/im.../w2000_q80.jpg

I’d be looking at JLC although there are some really nice suggestions so far.

I know you said no Rolex but a 39mm/36mm Explorer are surprisingly low key if you are only ruling them out for potential unwanted attention.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gav

How about this? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d6a167e693.jpg

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Good call. This is where I'd be...

https://i.ibb.co/V3wz8MD/IMG-5906.jpg

38mm zenith chronometer original..

Or any JLC - you could probably get a annual calendar for 10k!


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I too would go Zenith CM original or the GO Panomatic Lunar.

The GO wouldn’t get worn though.

Out of everything mentioned so far, I would go for the Sea Q 39.5mm.
You've said only new though, and if you were to go second hand ( even "nearly new") you open up a lot of other options.

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Moser heritage centre seconds, slightly above budget though- not sure if discounts are available and I think harrods is the only store that carries it?

Bathyscaphe 38 would be up there for me. It's exquisitely made, wears well with any outfit or occasion, and crucially as you're entering your 40's, it's easy to read!!!

how's about a JLC Polaris .. . . 42mm, 70 hours power reserve, and the detail has different levels of depth for a fabulous looking and functionable watch .. . and £9600 off the shelf .. . . :joyous:

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Originally Posted by Tartan1

how's about a JLC Polaris .. . . 42mm, 70 hours power reserve, and the detail has different levels of depth for a fabulous looking and functionable watch .. . and £9600 off the shelf .. . . :joyous:

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OP stated no larger than 40mm so the no date blue dial 40mm Polaris on bracelet would be a better option. I've always liked it.

Vintage Heuer Carrera 2447. Valjoux 72 movement in what is the prettiest 35-36mm watch case ever IMO. Alternatively, for a lot less budget, the late 90’s CS3111 reissue.


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