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I just found this when googling "dental flossing a crown thread"
1. Get your watch regulated if it's running unnecessarily fast or slow.
If the movement in your watch is capable of better performance than what you're getting from it out of the factory, you should absolutely consider getting it regulated. If it runs, say, 15 seconds fast or slow every day this will force you to have to unscrew the crown to correct the time and screw it back in way too often. The less you have to do this the better. The goal should be only needing to do this once a month, when you often have to correct the date anyway. Only doing this 12 times a year will mean the crown will last for ages compared to one that is screwed in and out once every other day throughout the years.
This is especially crucial for those with a Marine Master 300 with the 8L35 movement. It's unregulated from the factory and might run +15 seconds, but as this is actually a Grand Seiko movement it is capable of so much better timekeeping than this. With the MM300 having a crown-tube that is integrated to the case, having it last as long as possible before having to do a costly repair to fix it is key.
As for the other movements, the 7s26, 4r36, 6r15 etc., they should all be able to get within a spec where you should be able to only have to set the time once a month. Which leads me into point two...
2. Regulate your watch through different resting positions over night.
This is key. Even if your watch isn't very accurate, you can help it get back to correct time by using the correct resting position over night for your situation. My new and unregulated SRP637 Monster Tuna is consistently running -6 seconds on my wrist at the end of the day, but it takes them back by resting with the crystal facing upwards over night, resulting in a watch that runs -1 to -2 seconds a day. I have perhaps been a little lucky with the accuracy of mine, but if regulated by a good watchmaker this is a level of accuracy that most of these movements should be able to reach with no problem.
If your watch is running fast you can slow it down by letting it rest on its side over night. Experiment which of the two options between crown up or crown down slows it more.
If your watch is running slow you can speed it up by letting it rest with the crystal facing up or down. Experiment which of the two options speeds it up more.
This sensitivity to resting positions, which in chronometer terms is a weakness, is actually a blessing in disguise with these Seiko movements. They might not be the most accurate, but they can be "helped" back to roughly the correct time by adjusting the resting positions over night.
3. Use some grease on the threads.
This will reduce the friction of the threads between the crown and crowntube, and will increase the lifespan of the threads and make operating it feel smooth like butter. Do not use any petroleum based grease or oil, as this will have very bad effects on the gaskets, but rather use silicon based grease or oil. Seiko makes their own silicon grease that is perfect for this. Just google it and you will find it, it costs very little.
4. Be careful to backthread the crown before screwing it in.
Use some caution before you screw in the crown. To reduce the risk of cross-threading, use this technique of back-threading it first. Apply some downwards pressure to the crown until you feel it contacting the crown-tube, and make sure the pressure is even so the crown sits perfectly horisontal in relation to the case and the crownstem is not being bent. Then turn it anti-clockwise until you feel the click of the correct threads lining up, and then screw it in properly while retaining the pressure. This helps not cross-threading it when you screw it in, securing that the correct threads are engaging.
This is especially important on some of the cheaper Seikos where the crown "wobbles" a bit, and the risk of cross threading is pretty high if you're not carefull.
If you just make a point of following these steps it should ensure that your crown and crown-tube will last for many decades. The movement sure will if given regular service, so it's good to make sure that one of the other parts of the watch that sees a lot of wear - the crown - can also last as long as possible.
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I used waxed dental floss on the crown thread on my Seiko SKX007 as it felt quite grainy if thats the right word when i got it, it worked a treat and became very smooth aterwards, i think i got the tip off here a few years ago!
that's what I was trying to find out about.Originally Posted by Matt68
Good info thanks
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Hmmm. Whilst cleaning the threads is a good idea I'd be mindful of using dental floss: some of them are coated in wax and that can contain petroleum - which is bad for o-rings, should it migrate onto them.
Perhaps a better approach would be to use a non-coated type of thread and then follow up with silicone grease. For my camera equipment o-rings I use a product called Liberty silicone grease (which is actually advertised for watches) and is inexpensive, at the other end of the price scale is Fomblin UT18 which is far more £.
R
Ignorance breeds Fear. Fear breeds Hatred. Hatred breeds Ignorance. Break the chain.
The reason for the floss is to remove grit that may have been left on the crown threads. Using silicon grease on gritty threads will make the threading feel smoother, but the grit plus grease mix is effectively grinding paste that will do damage over time.
BTW, much as I admire the 7S26, I really do not believe that it can be regulated to a couple of seconds per day under conditions of everyday use. The design spec is an order of magnitude greater than that.
Just to clarify my post, I'm all for cleaning the threads before applying the silicone grease, the non-coated thread I use is the same as floss but without wax on it.
R
Ignorance breeds Fear. Fear breeds Hatred. Hatred breeds Ignorance. Break the chain.
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