I’ve already shown this on the Friday and Incoming threads, but hope you don’t mind the unboxing pics and some thoughts. It’s wordy, and picture heavy, sorry.
After a wait of a little over 13 months my 99.1M finally arrived yesterday. The TZ collective has supported me with this, with dial choices and then engraving angst.
This is the 99.1M, so 40mm, and the dial is a traditional silver plated brass. I did go for the €1000 Euro extra engraved option, which uses a supersized template and pantograph to give the dial an interesting depth effect.
Dornbluth allow you to mutilate the watch and reduce its resale value for free with a movement engraving, but as this is a watch for life, and personal to me, I have done exactly that, although I kept it to just initials.
Anyway, here it is, from unboxing to wrist, along with some build images. I’m a terrible photographer, it’s much more stunning in the flesh.
A demagnetiser, how thoughtful
I did find myself in an unfamiliar position in considering this type of watch. The great majority of my watches are straightforward tool watches, Seiko divers, CWC, 5 digit Rolex, Sinn etc. I did yearn for something else, something not a sports watch, nor something on the boundary such as Oyster Perpetual / Aqua Terra etc (ignoring the fact I have requested a DateJust). I did want manual wind, and just a subsidiary second dial. I did like the idea of a bit of old fashioned horological craft, rather than something mass produced, even if mass produced was technically better. I liked the idea of a pocket watch derived movement. So what to get?
I did give some short lived thought to the Trinity along with Lange, but I have difficulty with these. To be honest they are a lot more than I wanted to spend, and I would be self-conscious wearing something so expensive. The ones I gave thought to, Vacheron Traditionelle, Lange 1815 are quite simple mechanical objects with a large jewellery and luxury dimension, and I wasn’t really on board with that.
I did consider JLC, but the emblematic Reverso I have tried to like in the flesh, but just don’t. I did evaluate a Master moonphase as they didn’t have the Master thin small seconds in store, but I just didn’t get any frisson of excitement. Grand Seiko have fine finishing, but I couldn’t gel with any of their designs. Glashutte PanoReserve? They are lovely, but a bit Lange derivative, and a bit loud on the wrist. I think that’s an unfair analysis of GO, the PanoReserve is a great watch. Maybe something independent then. Dornbluth initially dismissed as too big at 42mm. Hentschel H1 looked nice, but they got very expensive after we left the EU, and the movement is a very highly modified AS1130. I decided it was Habring’s Felix, and last year I went to buy one that Stewarts watches in Leicester had in stock, but then in the flesh, it didn’t do it for me. What stopped me was the case between the lugs wasn’t finished properly, and the dial supplier had changed and there was no longer guilloche on the second dial, and it seemed basic. Back to the drawing board.
I became aware of the 40mm Dornbluth 99.1M, and Jana was kind enough to send me a case with attached strap, as well as silver and ceramic dial options with engraved and printed details. Size is good, not exactly thin at 10mm, but OK. Engraved silver dial looks amazing, so decision made.
So 13 and a bit month wait, £5000, what do I think of it?
This is a very unusual kind of watch for me, but I love it, I think it's beautiful. Being honest, it isn’t a Lange, it’s steel, it doesn’t have the thinness nor the level of finishing finesse, lovely as it is. I think the dial could teach Lange a thing or two when compared with the 1815. The engraving gives it real depth and is time consuming to do, the second dial is a separate piece of brass for extra depth. I think the Dornblüth dial has better balance, the Made in Germany is in a much more natural position and losing the 6 is better than Lange truncating it.
It is a watch that comes from a world free of automated production, luxury boutiques and all that faff. Ordering one is a very personal experience, and they are a delightful company to deal with. I’m sure it isn’t the technical tour de force of a modern Rolex, but I value it for what it is.
Would I do it again? Well I’m in the first flush of love, so ask me in a year, but so far, I wouldn’t be happier.
Dave
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