Reply With QuoteYou'd be wise to go stright for a 14060m!
It took me almost a year to get round to buying one and now it's my primary and favourate watch.
Looks like a 2007 version sold recently with a £2400 asking price.
Been looking for a Rolex as always wanted one.
Then this site pops up & so many good watches i don't know where to start :shock:
What price should i be paying for a 14060M in excellent condition?
Is condition more important than age etc?
As have no idea what to be paying?
Cheers Stv.
You'd be wise to go stright for a 14060m!
It took me almost a year to get round to buying one and now it's my primary and favourate watch.
Looks like a 2007 version sold recently with a £2400 asking price.
I'd say it's the perfect start.
A great watch, and you should be able to sell it with little or no less if/when you get tired of it.
You might be able to find a head only for under 2000.
Add a few hundred for bracelet and a couple more for box and papers.
Age doesn't really matter, but service need affects the price...
14060M is a great place to start .. I had one, with all boxes/papers/etc. paid around £2k for it .. then traded it (plus a little cash) for a PAM111 ..
/vince ..
To be honest I think the 14060(m or not) is almost the perfect start watch, and I still have a feeling that one day it might also be my perfect "out" watch - the one I'm left with when all is said and done and all the fancy stuff has been cast aside for the simplicity and hardwearing classic looks of the no date Sub. Great choice.
I'm glad you asked this question. Since joining here and seeing all the amazing watches people have the 14060M is the one that I would really like. I've always like the Submariner but never knew anything about them (various models, when they were released, how much they're worth). I still don't know enough to be honest. Anyway hopefully the experts will be along soon.Originally Posted by g40steve
You could also opt for a GrandSeiko 9F61/2 through EliteDealSeeker.
Like the 14060 it resells easily enough without a loss but is a lot less to fork out, yet no worries on service history, both of which is not a bad idea for a newbie.
Well I'm no expert, but IMHO it is is the Daddy of all watches. Many folks here would only rate a Seadweller higher.
An internet search will pull up lots of useful info as will a forum search here. For example:
http://www.vintagesubmariner.com/vintagesubs.html
http://doubleredseadweller.com/index.htm
http://precisiontime.blogspot.com/2008/ ... etual.html
Price wise there have been two on sales corner in the last week or so - a 2007 model was advertised for £2400 and a 2008 model went for £2600. The former is the classic 14060 with two lines of text on the dial, the latter model is the 14060M COSC -the current production model which is chronometer certified and has the additional two lines of text on the dial, as well as "Rolex" and the serial number of the watch engraved on the rehaut (the inner bit of the watch between the bezel and the dial).
Older models will go for less money - I'm guessing around £2000 - £2350 - even less if they are without the bracelet or box and papers. If you're buying an older watch you may need to factor in the cost of a service (approx £300 if carried out by Rolex) and if you're tempted to buy one head only, do bear in mind that a brand new bracelet could set you back £600 or so.
Newbie or Old Sweat the ND Sub is always a good one, theres some that will want a date, a cyclops etc etc but its a good watch for £2k as theres not much competition at that price point.
RIAC
probably the best starting point there is. 8)
I'm sure people have started and ended their collecting with a 14060M. My 14060M was the eighth decent mechanical watch I bought. If only I'd bought it first as you intend to do.
Non date subs are my favourite dive watches. Just wish I had the spare cash for one! A tudor sub might be an option but I wouldn't be totally satisfied with it
the ND Sub was my first proper watch, 21 years ago; its a great choice! I would also consider an Explorer 1 at similar money btw.
as ever, try one on before you buy - if you have very slim wrists the Sub may not be that comfortable or look quite right while the converse is true for the Explorer 1 if you have very large wrists!
I think its a great start point and is probably all the watch you ever need.
That being said, you can always flip easily for minimal loss as has been mentioned.
If its your 1st forray into this, I may recommend trying one on before you pull the trigger just to ease the nerves.
Lots of info 8) & reassurance :D
Is there a premium to having lastest COSC model or older models?
Which is the 'one' to have?
Will be eyeing the SC in Dec/Jan or may dip my toe in the WTB section, but no feedback on here?
Better get in & try one on :shock:
Definitely try one!
Regarding your other question, check out
http://www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=136310
Keep moving in a different direction but always end up wanting a 14060M!Best price i have seen was 2100 ,alas
having pondered to long missed it.
A 14060M will be my first Rolex.
Ive just had to let mine go :cry:
Simply superb watches.
It was yours that made my mind up 8)
Stunning!
Always loved the look of these and wanted one but always assumed it was too much for me to pull out. There's been 2 or 3 in the last week and all at prices within range so I may be investing soon.
The lure of a Planet Ocean is also getting a bit much, decisions decisions :)
As already mentioned, have a look at a Seadweller too. For a while I was all set to get a COSC 14060M (I even spent a day going around all the watch shops I could find in London in an attempt to find one - I would have bought one if I had), but after my failed shopping trip I started to get drawn to the 16600 (initially because it had a date and I'm no fan of the cyclops) which is what I ended up buying.
I'm certain I'll have a 14060 in my collection at some point.
Good place to start or end.
COSC will have a premium at present as you won't need to have it serviced - that said a fairly new recently serviced non COSC is going to be close in price and it is down to personal taste - I prefer the cleaner lines - but I'd love to own a COSC model after buying my brother one new the other month it really does look fantastic and thankfully he loves it. However, I have my sights on picking up a Plopprof and a Deep Sea this year - so have to decide what is going to make room for them and then it is another SD and a couple of 14060's no doubt before I emigrate :)
It's just a matter of time...
The one in SC at present has 2 lines of text yet service receipt states 14060m confusing, esp for a newbie :o
So it's m/cosc from 2007 on?
14060 and 14060m is the model number rolex designated for the non date sub
the m stands for the modified upgraded 3130 movement which was upgraded from the caliber 3000 in 1999 or there around.
so from
14060 1989-99 has the 3000 movment.
14060M: 1999- present has the 3130 movement.
cosc testing was z serial onwards so the 4 liners came around late 2007
heres two 14060m one 2 liner without the cosc script on the dial
one with and one without , only difference is one ahs been tested at the
COSC - Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres
and one hasn't , movements are identical as are barelect case etc .
hope this helps
http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/14060M_W2982.htm
http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/14060M_S12462.htm
i like the 4 liners , very much like the 5512 of old
but other like the two liners ala 5513 so entirely your call
ps....... i bought the one on sales corner you were looking at from andyroo
will get it in the morning :) gonna be my new everyday go anywhere do anything piece
replacing my 27 yr old 5513 maxi from beater duties .
Al
trying to find a recent two liner since ages and whenever there is one i seem to be one day late...
owned a none date one payed 2k for it but ended up selling it as i liked my PO better but it was a great watch
Thanks for clearing that up for me :D14060 and 14060m is the model number rolex designated for the non date sub
the m stands for the modified upgraded 3130 movement which was upgraded from the caliber 3000 in 1999 or there around.
so from
14060 1989-99 has the 3000 movment.
14060M: 1999- present has the 3130 movement.
cosc testing was z serial onwards so the 4 liners came around late 2007
heres two 14060m one 2 liner without the cosc script on the dial
one with and one without , only difference is one ahs been tested at the
COSC - Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres
and one hasn't , movements are identical as are barelect case etc .
hope this helps
http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/14060M_W2982.htm
http://www.blowers-jewellers.co.uk/14060M_S12462.htm
i like the 4 liners , very much like the 5512 of old
but other like the two liners ala 5513 so entirely your call
ps....... i bought the one on sales corner you were looking at from andyroo
will get it in the morning :) gonna be my new everyday go anywhere do anything piece
replacing my 27 yr old 5513 maxi from beater duties .
Al
Get some photos up when you get it 8)
Dec/Jan I'll be looking if anyone is toying with selling please pm me.
No feedback on here but 170+ on the bay ;)
no probs happy to help
it arrived this morning and is gonna be my daily beater piece
will get some scans up soon ,
like many others have said its a great go anywhere do anything piece
only piece i rate higher than this for usability is a SD
but this is lighter and the case is thinner
its the last of the classic subs with lugholes and the trusty rattly bracelet we all love or loathe :)
quick coupla pics
thanks again mr andyroo watch is super mint
I've been looking closely at the 14060M and as said previously the only other Rolex that would do for me would be the Sea Dweller.
I'm not one to flip watches so if I was to (and it's getting close) buy one, it would be to keep.
Cheers for the info reference COSC.
Alanski really nice watch.
Exactly my thinking too. When I buy one I intend having it for the rest of my life. Which hopefully will be a long time. :shock:
Well as a blatant plug.. mine is on the SC now :(
That didn't last long.
tell me about it... about 10 mins!
back to original question....I'm not sure about a good place to start....I reckon it's a good place at any time :P
I've just swapped out a Panerai 176 for a ND 14060M which some might question but in the scheme of my collection makes much sense for me. cracking wee watch (albeit <that> bracelet is something else...!)
It has to be a 1999-2007 Version to get the Classic and balanced two up two down lines of text and it does not need that jangly hollow bracelet, it needs a variety of NATO's but essentially a Black one & a Classic Bond one.
Just my humble opinion but combine two lines, no cyclops or date to create a perfectly balanced dial and you have perfection personified.
RIAC
I'm finding myself agreeing and knowing that if I buy one and put it on a Nato it would probably be my most worn watch - I've been working my way through all the watches that I actually wear and most I'm just not bonding with too much on a day to day basis - although I wouldn't sell most of them anyway - but I have a thing for the 14060 and regret everyone I have sold now :( in its case less is definitely more!
It's just a matter of time...
Hi all,
Love'em,,, just the best classic neo vintage Rolex at the moment IMHO, the new 5513 but tougher.These are the best bang for the buck Rolex watches today but I think this might change. You just cannot go wrong and these and they will only increase in price.
I have owned four of these, all 14060's I love the Tritium dials, and just recently bought another in super complete set in super condition from 1994.
Get one!
M
So what should i be looking to pay for one?
How much more for a Sea dweller as these are also tempting me.
How does a newbie avoid the dreaded fake?
Great choice as a first Rolex, but you might want to consider the new Explorer. Definitely a big improvement now it's a bit bigger
hi thats was my 1st rolex and i loved it i never stopped looking at it i,m a sub man :wink:
That's a matter of opinion....I prefer the old Explorer and the size is fine for me. Only advantage with the new one is the bracelet and the size...provided you want a 39mm watch. I`ll stick with my 'old' Explorer 1.
As for the 14060, I'm a big fan of the Sub but I had problems getting the bracelet on the non-date Sub to fit nicely on my 6.75" wrist. The Sub date bracelet fits much better....that's why I sold my 14060 and ended up with a Sub date! I prefer the non-date Sub aesthetically, but I had to chose in favour of the date...because of the bracelet. Crazy on such an expensive watch, but true.
Paul
I started with a Sub C, then a Sea Dweller but realised that my decision for a keeper would be a 14060M
A bit like this one :wink:It has to be a 1999-2007 Version to get the Classic and balanced two up two down lines of text and it does not need that jangly hollow bracelet, it needs a variety of NATO's but essentially a Black one & a Classic Bond one.
Just my humble opinion but combine two lines, no cyclops or date to create a perfectly balanced dial and you have perfection personified.
^^^ what yr is that?
Can you pm some idea of price to get an example like that, as i intend to buy in the next two months depending on availability?
What strap is that?
As the braclet would get scratched a lot.
PM sent
Not to be rude but I wish people wouldn't post this sort of thing - I'm trying to convince myself I don't need another watch and it doesn't help! :D
I think this is an excellent looking watch, it looks a lot less cluttered than the model with the date window. I saw a few in London and think I may save up for one, even though I very much don't need it!
It's a great choice, you should be able to get one for just over 2K mark
Condition is deffo more important than age
probably could be said for most of us :wink:even though I very much don't need it!
Thanks for the info :wink:
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