But first, the first watch of the perfect trio.
About four years ago I decided I wanted a BYW. I'm sure the forum had something to do with it, but the thought of having things the same age as myself has always appealed to me, and what could possibly be better than a watch? It is always with you and takes the same knocks and beatings that you do.
After looking through the models that would qualify for the specific year I was after the choice was easy, it had to be a 1675. The fact that the two-color bezel had been discontinued made it even more interesting. (Of course, at the time the 116710 BLNR had not yet been introduced.)
After deciding on a reference, and a lot of ideas from the forum, Jacek was extremely patient and helpful finding a watch in decent condition at a price I could accept. My primary concern was a good case, here's the watch I ended up getting. (Jacek's photos.)
This was my first vintage Rolex. I wasn't too concerned about condition other than the case, since I had a pretty good idea about my stand as far as vintage is concerned. Hint: It rhymes pretty well with the stance Rolex has, so vintage purists may wish to turn back now.
Anyhow, I wore the watch every now and then, and concluded that I like the idea of vintage. However, I also concluded that it needs to look like it has been taken care of, and that I need to be confident that it can take the brutality of daily life. This means that I can't be worried about bits of cracked lume coming loose, and that corrosion on the hands and marks on the dial need to go.
So, off to Rolex AD Rob Engström in Stockholm it goes, where watchmaker Peter rips out all the defective parts, as dictated by the service routines issued by Rolex HQ. The watch is returned to me in good-as-new condition, with service papers to match.
After a few seconds in front of the UV lamp ...
... it is evident that the watch, besides keeping perfect time, now has lume that is acceptable for daily use.
The watch still has a major defect, one that I wasn't willing to pay to remedy.
The bracelet is of course of sub-par quality, rattly and light.
Rolex has taken its good time getting a decent upgrade in place, decent bracelets haven't been available until the introduction of the six-number references.
However, putting a modern Oyster bracelet on a 1675, which is so much smaller and lighter than its descendants, does not feel right. Besides the weight imbalance, I don't think polished center links belong on a vintage GMT.
So, what to do?
After thirtyish e-mails with measurements, new measurements, discussions about color, thickness and everything in between, the only hurdle left was a bit of a tussle with TNT regarding commercial invoices and other documentation.
For whatever reason a small package from Indonesia flagged red, but after a few phone calls it was released to me.
What could suit a newly renovated vintage watch than a nice vintage style leather strap?
Peter Gunny delivered, pertfect fit, gorgeous handiwork and a discreetly engraved logo and serial number.
Does it work?
It works!
There a still a few bits missing though.
I turn to Bergströms, a Rolex AD in Gothenburg. I got what I came for. It is well-protected against theft. And break-ins.
Supposedly this is currently the best supplier of authentic Rolex buckles in the world, as far as price is concerned.
Perfect fit!
Just as I envisioned it.
There is still something missing though.
At first it seemed as though the sender had written the wrong address on my last package, the post office didn't want to accept my ID, which didn't match the name in their system.
Clearly displaying an aura of desperation, I ask the pimply teenager to find the package to ensure that they haven't made a mistake, which he after a number of upset stares and admonitions from the people behind me in line finally does.
My name is clearly marked on the package and the attached documentation. The clerk finally hands MY package over with a look of defeat all over his face.
The package contains two bits of precision-machined 316L steel, marked 1675.
Mounted, ready for use!
The leather is still a bit stiff, but I don't think it will take very many days for it to feel like mine.
The obligatory wrist shot.
So, with the 1675 I have managed to tick three boxes.
- Vintage
- Birth Year
- 24h (although no jump hour)
On to the second watch of the perfect trio.
I sure hope all those people aren't lining up to buy one!
Nope, I was the only one, so here's a bit of an unboxing.
Nice inner box.
It is not Panerai quality, but still nice.
Sparkly!
Here we go.
Trio member number two is a Jaeger LeCoultre Ultra Thin Moon 39.
I have had this one on the rader for a long time, but have never bought one, for two reasons.
The first is that I assumed that decently priced used ones would arrive on the preloved market after the hype Hodinkee created had died down.
http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2011/5/...thin-moon.html
This has not happened.
The second reason is that I have had a Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon at the very top of my list for a long time.
http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/SE/e...on/1322410#/t1
It would basically do everything the MUT Moon 39 would (except the moon phase, of course) since there is definitely only room for one dress watch in my box.
However, I scratched it from the list after recently having a chance to sit down and fiddle with it for a while. The slightly larger diameter and 15% increase in thickness simply makes it too bulky for what I want this type of watch to do. Of course the price (increase by a factor of eight) also weighs heavily against it.
A few close-ups:
This is the first watch I have ever owned that actually pulled off an inspection with a loupe with flying colors.
That's two more requirements off the list.
- Vintage
- Year Watch
- 24h-visning
- Dress Watch
- Complication which is not second, date, rotatable bezel or 24h
On the wrist.
Excuse me, would you by any chance know if there was a full moon yesterday?
One moment, please, let me check.
Yes sir, it was so.
Now, off to the AD for the third watch of the perfect trio.
But first, some bubbly.
And a very nice 1655.
A few more glasses required.
There is only one brand in the business with outer boxes that are this spiritless.
Getting there.
No mistaking the brand.
One more for good measure.
Unboxings will never be what they were now that the lint cloth is gone.
Bezel protector!
Out of the box.
And peel the plastic ...
... some 15-20 minutes later.
Nice heft.
So, what was wrong with the 116613LB that had performed so well for so long?
Well, gold. Yellow gold.
I thought I'd get used to it, but I never really did.
But why worry when there are other materials to be had?
This, my friends, is the ultimate diver. Of course, the vintage crowd doesn't agree, but here are the facts.
- The bezel on early Submariners can be turned both ways. Dangerous! Of course the bezel on a 116619LB can only be turned counter-clockwise.
- Old watches have no lume. Dangerous! Of course a 116619LB has lume that will last the whole dive. In comparison, a tired old 1665 is about as much a tool watch as a DJ the diamonds markers on the dial.
- Real tools need to be kept in decent shape. The lugs on an old 1680 cannot be polished many times without looking anorectic. Silly. A 116619LB can be polished hundreds of times without the case looking bad.
- A tool must be able to withstand its working environment. Plexi Subs are based on a flawed design that allows salt water to be trapped against the case.
(Check out the details here.)
So, that's the last two requirements checked off.
- Vintage
- Birth Year
- 24h
- Dress Watch
- Complication which is not second, date, rotatable bezel or 24h
- Diver
- Beater
On the wrist, ready for a frosty morning.
I already know what it can take, now I'm looking forward to giving it a good beating.
Finally, here it is, the perfect trio.
Anyone figured out what the theme is?
And what about the keeper?
First, some decent rum and a good Churchill.
Well, it turns out all three watches are birth year watches, only two of them aren't mine.
The KEEPER
Fast-forwarding another few months, to about 15 weeks ago, the keeper (and owner of the two last watches) has arrived.
Looks like I'll be getting to wear them for a while though.
I think by now the theme is fairly obvious, no?
Thanks for looking!