Reply With QuoteBergeon 6767.
Job done.
I naively bought a cheap Spring bar tool from eBay a few weeks ago as part of a set and its rubbish, the tip is made from butter and its not going near any of my watches as its just waiting to break, slip and scratch the back of a lug.
Therefore could anyone recommend a better one? I'm not after spending £000's but something that could be used more than a few times without breaking would be great
Bergeon 6767.
Job done.
Try a Bergeon. Well made and you can replace the tips as and when required.
I bought mine from here http://www.watch-tool.de/html/bracelet_tools.php. plenty on offer, take your pick!!Originally Posted by Zolawinston
I naively bought a cheap Spring bar tool from eBay a few weeks ago as part of a set and its rubbish, the tip is made from butter and its not going near any of my watches as its just waiting to break, slip and scratch the back of a lug.
Therefore could anyone recommend a better one? I'm not after spending £000's but something that could be used more than a few times without breaking would be great
+1 for this. The only decent spring bar tool I've ever used.
Thanks all, I'd seen the Bergeon so your recommendations is enough for me
I'd suggest the 6767-F
Another Bergeon user here, it's the standard really and I wouldn't trust anything else, affordable too.
Me too.
F.T.F.A.
... And me! About twelve quid on eBay.
Will the Bergeron work on an Explorer 114270? I've never been able to shift the spring bars with the various spring bar tools I have.
+1 for the Bergeon 6767-F, does work on Explorers but if you're removing bracelets regularly a better tool is the Bergeon 7825 tweezer as it
compresses both springbars simultaneously.
It's a similar tool to the one Rolex technicians use but seems horrendously expensive (c. £125 inc. VAT)
Or if you're good with chopsticks you could use two 6767Fs for a fifth of the price.
I agree on the 6767. Get some fat & fine tips then it's easy to do straps & bracelets.
I've had mine years, it's a pleasure to use.
Dave
Totally agree on every point.
I also use a 6767 and have both fat and fine tips. I use the fine tip way more than the fat one im just going to order a new fine tip right now.
I have been using a Bergeon 6767 successfully for many years. Recently I was given a gift with an order from Seiya of one of his "special spring bar remover" and found it to be an excellent tool, it will accept Bergeon replacement bits and has the advantage of screw on end caps so makes a great travel tool.
I'd be a bit cautious about buying one on eBay, unless it's from a reputable seller. A lot of the stuff labelled "Bergeon" on eBay (especially from China) is fake.
Another vote for the Bergeon tool. I have used it for more than 10 years. The fat tip works very well for the Seiko Divers with fat spring bars.
I have the 6767 F and this one http://www.watch-tool.de/html/bracel....php?id=0090fc
The springier tweezer is very helpful when changing bracelets especially if the end links are too tight.
Last edited by 72bpm; 4th September 2016 at 19:16.
Good call on those pliers. I might get a pair.I have the 6767 F and this one http://www.watch-tool.de/html/bracel....php?id=0090fc
The springier tweezer is very helpful when changing bracelets especially if the end links are too tight.
These are the kind of tools you should always have with you when you want to inspect a watch that you are thinking of buying.
Another vote for the Bergeon. I prefer the fine tip for eveything
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Same here. And if I want to be extra cautious, I ducktape the lugs prior to springbars removal/return
The fine tip is required to access the springbar 'window' on bracelets.
I prefer the standard tip for working on straps.
The pushpin for drilled lugs is the same on both the 6767 S and F
It is good to get into the habit of taping the top of the lugs, particularly whilst you are learning.
It avoids any unpleasant problems.
The copper coloured polymide tape is not expensive - the 8mm width is ideal and doesn't leave a sticky residue on the lugs.
Electrical insulation tape is more robust than Sellotape - the tips of the tool are sharp.
Last edited by W124; 4th September 2016 at 22:58.
Ducktape is an interesting option. i have been using some fine sort of tape recommended to me buy my AD but its a lot of hassle. Does the duck tape work perfectly well?
I am a Bergeon user as well although i would love to get my hands on one of the tweezer style tools that come in the rolex tool box most Ads have!
Bergeon every day
I find the fine tip easier to use
This^^ No looking back. Either 6767F, or 6767S will do the job with ease.
I had the Bergeon tweezer type, the one below, I ended up gifting it to someone as I couldn't get on with it, it increases scratch risk more than the 6767 imo.
Untitled by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr
Yes, its just a couple of seconds to apply and doesnt leave any visible area to scratch
I use watchmakers protective tape, it comes in various widths. Left in photo below.
Untitled by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr
Thanks for the pointers -- Ordered one of those little tinkers.
Saves using paperclips.
Al
Personally, I've never used tape but the web tells me that many do. They use various types of tape. Polyamide Kapton masking tape seems to be the top end choice and is used when polishing cases. Painters' paper masking tape is popular but it may be too easy for tools or parts to dislodge it. Duct tape is another option (tougher and stickier), but is more likely to leave a residue that has to be removed.
These guys are specialist suppliers to watchmakers (including Kapton tape) and don't use any tape: Esslinger How to videos on YouTube.
All in all, it's a matter of personal choice and much will depend upon your own experience and confidence / mechanical ability.
I currently have the Bergeon 6767 which I seem to be able to operate to get the spring bars out. However, It does seem a bit of a blunt instrument (this may also be my lack of skill) in extracting the spring bars.
So was considering getting a more advanced tool to do this job...
Does anyone have an experience of both the Bergeon 6825 and Bergeon 7825 and could offer some advise about these two tools?
Many thanks, Matt...
Don't waste your hard earned on with of those, they are awkward to use, so if you are struggling with a 6767, then seriously avoid the headache Matt.
The more you use a 6767 the easier it gets. granted some spring bars can be more stubborn than others, but as said, more experience using the right tool for the job helps.
If you put Bergeon 6825 into the forum search (top right under the header) you'll find plenty of threads with all the advice you need, including:
I have both the 6767 and the 6825. The 6767 is great and I think every half-decent watchmaker has one to change straps.
The 6825 is only useful for bracelets and with a little practice it dramatically reduces the risk of scratches. It also makes replacing bracelets a lot easier. I'm a big fan, but I also know some people think it's overpriced or don't like working with it. I personally don't see how anyone could prefer a 6767 when fitting a bracelet. With the 6825 you can simply compress the springbar and place the end link between the lugs - job done.
In the end, don't expect to be a watchmaker with a lifetime of experience just because you have high quality tools. Practice makes perfect.
Interesting, I wondered the best way to remove a bracelet. £125 though? Good post!
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Bergeon 6111, costs more but using the wide tip there's less chance of damage/marking with leather/rubber straps.
That doesnt work with no shoulder springbars which are common for lug hole rolexes. So a 6767 is likely the most versatile tool.
This looks like a nifty little tool
“Introducing the Strap-Changing Multi-Tool by worn&wound” via @watchville
https://api.watchville.co/v2/posts/23788/click
That does look pretty good, and not a bad price either.
That said, in my experience it's all about the quality and precision of the tip. The cheaper tools tend to have softer tips that do not have as precise a grind on the "V" which makes them a lot less effective.
I too have the Bergeon 6767F and the tips are ground very precisely, which makes them a lot easier to locate, with less risk of slippage and scratching as a result. The difference is tiny but also huge.
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