What do you drive?

[poppy]

I picked this up t'other day and am really enjoying it. feels like a lot of car for not too much money.

[Kirk280]

I picked this up t'other day and am really enjoying it. feels like a lot of car for not too much money.

Great choice! Petrol or diesel? (I think the bonnet vent suggests the latter?)

Put some winter tyres on it and enjoy the snow.

[poppy]

good spot, it is the diesel.

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[lawler]

Tube....

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[noTAGlove]

Great choice! Petrol or diesel? (I think the bonnet vent suggests the latter?)

Put some winter tyres on it and enjoy the snow.

What snow?

[eternalife]

My current cars,

[PDE]

Took this today & was told it should be ready for June

Mercedes 250SL Pagoda

[Kirk280]

My current cars,

There seems to be a number of Evora owners on this forum! I approve (and am jealous!)

[PeterM]

Quite possibly one of the coolest cars in the world.

It would be great to see any updates and specs for the rebuild.

Took this today & was told it should be ready for June

Mercedes 250SL Pagoda

[dougair]

Took this today & was told it should be ready for June

Mercedes 250SL Pagoda

😳😳😳

[Saint-Just]

Please keep us updated

[eternalife]

There seems to be a number of Evora owners on this forum! I approve (and am jealous!)

Thanks, had it for about 18 months now, and certainly enjoy driving it (when there is less salt on the road that is!)
Just gone from the latest page back to page 60, Supercars, powerful cars, rally cars, very clean (and rare) classics and boats! This forum never ceases to amaze me!

[PDE]

Please keep us updated

This was from a couple of months ago -



Another from today, just need to finalise the colour choice this week

[Velorum]

I will add my latest acquisition

Since selling my Volvo 760 I have been after a big barge with a V engine and recent discussion on here and elsewhere has pointed me in the direction of Japanese models. So.........

1998 Nissan Maxima QX




Lovely V6 3 litre engine

Mechanically its spot on (111K and FSH) - lovely and smooth with a nice growl when you out your foot down. 20mpg or less with 'spirited' driving but you cant have everything. Serviced in November but I have it booked in with my usual guy for a full service next week just to be on the safe side.

A couple of bodywork issues - minor crease to front wing and rear door, a couple of dings in the bonnet and a few other places and the rear bumper is slightly adrift. Fortunately a friend of a friend runs a body shop and its looking like a morning or afternoon will see everything back in shape.

The usual minor electrical issues that I'm working through at my leisure - just need to sort out the cruise control and aftermarket alarm now.

All for £1K

Bangernomics in action

[Bravo73]

...and certainly enjoy driving it (when there is less salt on the road that is!)

I wouldn't let a little cold weather get in your way of enjoying it:



And any salt obviously won't have the same effect as on a steel car. GRP and aluminium can't rust.

[scooobydont]

For the evora owners, this youtbe channel will show your car in all its guts and glory:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...tnwtU6LfLGHS_m

The chap buys a write off and rebuilds it from the ground up. It's great to see the engineering under the skin and you will not get anymore in depth than this.

I am only about half way through it all (no spoilers please, )

[eternalife]

I wouldn't let a little cold weather get in your way of enjoying it:

And any salt obviously won't have the same effect as on a steel car. GRP and aluminium can't rust.

Lovely Car ;) is it your only car? used daily?
The problem with cold weather is it makes my car cover fuse itself on the car :D
I probably take it out once a week, partly due to the fact the GTi (with DSG) is so much easier getting around in London traffic - and as for salt, annoying to clean!

[zelig]

And any salt obviously won't have the same effect as on a steel car. GRP and aluminium can't rust.

It won't rust. But it will corrode. Salt breaks down the passive oxide layer that normally protects Aluminium alloys.

Precious metals, such gold, do not corrode under "household conditions", others, such as iron or aluminium do. Rusting of iron is a typical example. Here, the corroded surface often is very porous and the corrosion carries on until the whole piece of metal is turned to rust (oxidized).

In the case of aluminium, the initial corrosive layer is very tight and serves as a protection for the rest of the aluminium. Such a very thin and transparent protection layer often is artificially applied.

Now comes the table salt, which is sodium chloride (NaCl). Sodium chloride is hygroscopic, it "attracts" the water. It is also very soluble in water.
When it dissolves, sodium Na+ & chloride Cl−
ions are formed.

The chloride ions attach and move into the protective oxide layer of the aluminium and finally induce the corrosion of the aluminium metal.

For a more scientific, in-depth explanation of this corrosive processes known as pitting, you might want to have a look at undergrad corrosion text books.

z









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[eternalife]

For the evora owners, this youtbe channel will show your car in all its guts and glory:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...tnwtU6LfLGHS_m

The chap buys a write off and rebuilds it from the ground up. It's great to see the engineering under the skin and you will not get anymore in depth than this.

I am only about half way through it all (no spoilers please, )

Thanks for that! Just watched Pt 1, damn that is quite some damage! will help me get to know my car a lot better that's for sure

[solwisesteve]

It won't rust. But it will corrode. Salt breaks down the passive oxide layer that normally protects Aluminium alloys.

For a more scientific, in-depth explanation of this corrosive processes known as pitting, you might want to have a look at undergrad corrosion text books.

As the past owner of 4 landrovers (I mean 'proper' landrovers not chelsea cruisers) I can contest to this. However the problem is really where the alluminium is in contact with other metals lower down in the electrochemical series e.g. iron. In that case the alluminium corrodes in preference to the iron. Bulbing on the doors of landrovers is a very common issue where the door skin is in contact with the steel frame (the fix, before it starts to happen, is flood the inside of the frame with waxoyle so the steel and alluminium/steel contact area isn't exposed to water/air). ISTR there have been of reports where there's been corrosion in the alluminium chassis that lotus use where the steel bolts are used to attach things like the bulkheads.

[BillyCasper]

As the past owner of 4 landrovers (I mean 'proper' landrovers not chelsea cruisers) I can contest to this. However the problem is really where the alluminium is in contact with other metals lower down in the electrochemical series e.g. iron. In that case the alluminium corrodes in preference to the iron. Bulbing on the doors of landrovers is a very common issue where the door skin is in contact with the steel frame (the fix, before it starts to happen, is flood the inside of the frame with waxoyle so the steel and alluminium/steel contact area isn't exposed to water/air). ISTR there have been of reports where there's been corrosion in the alluminium chassis that lotus use where the steel bolts are used to attach things like the bulkheads.

This is not happening on inexpensive vehicles is it, I have to expect this to happen on the roof of my VW California.


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[solwisesteve]

This is not happening on inexpensive vehicles is it, I have to expect this to happen on the roof of my VW California.


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I had a landrover D90 where it was present after two years! I think the issues reported for Lotus has been on vehicles c. 10 years old:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=788030

[Chinnock]

Defender 110 once this has been sold

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifie...n-2010/6728872

[hogthrob]

Didn't Aston Martin used to use wax paper between frame and body panels, to try and avoid galvanic corrosion?

[AlphaOmega]

I've been battling with this over the last few days.

My S2000 is garaged and only comes out when it's not raining.

Over the last few weeks though, there have been some sunny afternoons even though there is grit on the roads. Don't really want to stop driving her until the Spring but concerned about salt corrosion. Presumably, jet washing the underside won't make any difference. I'm not so concerned about the alloys as I can get them coated but thinking of the chassis really. Does anyone have an idea of how much damage can be done / how quickly?

[Backward point]

I've been battling with this over the last few days.

My S2000 is garaged and only comes out when it's not raining.

Over the last few weeks though, there have been some sunny afternoons even though there is grit on the roads. Don't really want to stop driving her until the Spring but concerned about salt corrosion. Presumably, jet washing the underside won't make any difference. I'm not so concerned about the alloys as I can get them coated but thinking of the chassis really. Does anyone have an idea of how much damage can be done / how quickly?

The lack of factory undersealing on the S2000 bothered me, so I took mine to TGM who pressure washed the underside, dried it with compressed air and then undersealed it with something a bit like black Waxoyl (like Waxoyl it doesn't harden, and will self-repair abrasion from stones and scratches). I removed the front and rear bumper assemblies and Waxoyled behind them.

I haven't driven it for a month or so, though.

[AlphaOmega]

The lack of factory undersealing on the S2000 bothered me, so I took mine to TGM who pressure washed the underside, dried it with compressed air and then undersealed it with something a bit like black Waxoyl (like Waxoyl it doesn't harden, and will self-repair abrasion from stones and scratches). I removed the front and rear bumper assemblies and Waxoyled behind them.

I haven't driven it for a month or so, though.

Thanks BP.

Edit: Spoke with TGM and might tee up a weekend away while getting the car resealed in the summer.

[solwisesteve]

Thanks BP.

Edit: Spoke with TGM and might tee up a weekend away while getting the car resealed in the summer.

Waxoyling is something I used to do every two years on the landrovers. Got it off to a 'T'. Jerry can with 50/50 waxoyle/derv. Tarpaulin on the floor. Drive onto said tarpaulin. Old clothes to be thrown away afterwards. Goggles/mask. Use compressor shultz gun, the kind that takes cartridges that are then topped up from the jerry can mix. I could do the whole chassis inside and out in about an hour - add another 30 mins prep and clearing up. Often used to give the door frames another top up at the same time through pre-drilled holes. Remember to park the landrover afterwards on some scrap land whilst it drips. ;-)

[AlphaOmega]

Waxoyling is something I used to do every two years on the landrovers. Got it off to a 'T'. Jerry can with 50/50 waxoyle/derv. Tarpaulin on the floor. Drive onto said tarpaulin. Old clothes to be thrown away afterwards. Goggles/mask. Use compressor shultz gun, the kind that takes cartridges that are then topped up from the jerry can mix. I could do the whole chassis inside and out in about an hour - add another 30 mins prep and clearing up. Often used to give the door frames another top up at the same time through pre-drilled holes. Remember to park the landrover afterwards on some scrap land whilst it drips. ;-)

Sounds do-able, thanks for the tips.

In reality I may get the pros to do it as they'll wire brush the chassis as well. Still, I'm tempted to give it a go...

[vagabond]

If it's a cherished car or one you intend to keep for a few years, then definitely worth investing in some rust protection/prevention.

I've been meaning to get my 20 year old Landcruiser done for a few years and have been doing some research on this; Waxoyl is widely used, though I believe there are several better products out there now. If you are going down the DIY route you may want to look at Dinitrol as an alternative to Waxoyl.

https://www.dinitroldirect.com/

If you're going to get it done by the professionals, then Buzzweld seem to get good reviews but is more expensive than the Waxoyl/Dinitrol options.

http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/

YMMV. :-)

[Bravo73]

Lovely Car ;) is it your only car? used daily?
The problem with cold weather is it makes my car cover fuse itself on the car :D
I probably take it out once a week, partly due to the fact the GTi (with DSG) is so much easier getting around in London traffic - and as for salt, annoying to clean!

Yep, I use it pretty much every day. Even when it is -5 when I need to get to work. The key is winter tyres (and heated seats). As you already know, Evoras are simply amazing cars.

It won't rust. But it will corrode. Salt breaks down the passive oxide layer that normally protects Aluminium alloys.

Whatever ali corrosion is nothing like the rust suffered by steel cars when subjected to salt. My point was simply that any salt on the road shouldn't be a reason to not drive an Evora during the winter.

For the evora owners, this youtbe channel will show your car in all its guts and glory:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...tnwtU6LfLGHS_m

The chap buys a write off and rebuilds it from the ground up. It's great to see the engineering under the skin and you will not get anymore in depth than this.

I am only about half way through it all (no spoilers please, )

Ah, good ol' 'B is for Build'. We were watching from episode 1 over on thelotusforums. Although it is often 'B is for Bodge', Chris has got a great manner in front of the camera and it is compulsive viewing. I started watching the Evora vids but have subsequently subscribed, bought one of his t-shirts and I'm now looking forward to his 'adding twin turbos to a Mustang' vids. The hours of work that he puts into his cars is outstanding.

[scooobydont]

Just realised I dont have my 2.8 widebody that I bought last year on here (the back has since been lowered)

[AlphaOmega]

If it's a cherished car or one you intend to keep for a few years, then definitely worth investing in some rust protection/prevention.

I've been meaning to get my 20 year old Landcruiser done for a few years and have been doing some research on this; Waxoyl is widely used, though I believe there are several better products out there now. If you are going down the DIY route you may want to look at Dinitrol as an alternative to Waxoyl.

https://www.dinitroldirect.com/

If you're going to get it done by the professionals, then Buzzweld seem to get good reviews but is more expensive than the Waxoyl/Dinitrol options.

http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/

YMMV. :-)

Thanks. One good tip I've been given is to get it done in summer when the car is completely dry - otherwise you'll be sealing in moisture.

Looks like I've got a couple of months to find the perfect solution (as it were).

[vagabond]

Most of the (good) pros will steam clean and dry before applying any coatings. They will usually do the work indoors too.

If you're DIY then I would certainly recommend doing it in the Summer.

[AlphaOmega]

^oh... so I could get it done now then rather than wait six months. Righto.

[James T. Kirk©]

This gal is going into it's 11th year, Japanese, but designed and built in the good old UK.... The 1.8 not the thrifty 1.4 and that with Dutch gas prices!

[Greenman]

Got this just before Christmas. It looks completely over the top - but I love it!

ATB

Jon

Great choice! There is a guy who has a blue one and parks next to me in the underground. Every now and again he lets it howl, and when underground you feel like you're in an air raid shelter during the blitz. Real beast!

[ingenioren]

Currently, enjoying 1 diesel and 1 petrol - cannot complain...




Cheers, Peter

[Alex L]

Very nice (although not sure about the M power number plate holders), my colleague picks up his X5 40D tomorrow.

You don't see many petrol 6 series, which engine is yours?

[ingenioren]

Very nice (although not sure about the M power number plate holders), my colleague picks up his X5 40D tomorrow.

You don't see many petrol 6 series, which engine is yours?

It has the twin turbo petrol, very smooth, with a gorgeous exhaust note, in particular in Sport+ mode, (when the entire dash changes format )

[Alex L]

It has the twin turbo petrol, very smooth, with a gorgeous exhaust note, in particular in Sport+ mode, (when the entire dash changes format )

Good choice, presumably the 650i?

[Skyman]

One kit car out, one kit car in.😜
Just a lightly peppier one, at 620bhp per tonne.

[Estoril-5]

One kit car out, one kit car in.😜
Just a lightly peppier one, at 620bhp per tonne.

I'd love a kit car especially a caterham or Westfield but I think I'd struggle to fit in one being over 100 kg, I'm extra chubby 😂

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[Skyman]

I'd love a kit car especially a caterham or Westfield but I think I'd struggle to fit in one being over 100 kg, I'm extra chubby 

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The benefit of being a 75kg lightweight!

[Cat7]

One kit car out, one kit car in.
Just a lightly peppier one, at 620bhp per tonne.

Very nice 620 Simon, I see you went for the S and not the R, any particular reason? Still that must bite back!!

[Skyman]

Very nice 620 Simon, I see you went for the S and not the R, any particular reason? Still that must bite back!!

Hi Paul, 90% road use in France, so a bit more relaxed than the sequential R. However, I shall need to be attentive, as you say!

[docd]

^^^^^^^^^^^ 100 bhp per tonne here, new (to me) 1.6 MX5 MK2 :



I think the Caterham wins all of the top trumps categories except maybe colour

Cheers
Chris

[Cat7]

Hi Paul, 90% road use in France, so a bit more relaxed than the sequential R. However, I shall need to be attentive, as you say!

Hi Simon, Wow what a road car, and you've even got comfy S type seats, much more comfy than my tilletts!
Enjoy that, looks awesome in that colour to, all the best Paul.

[Estoril-5]

The benefit of being a 75kg lightweight!

What did you have before?

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[julian2002]

Bought this at the start of January. Wafts me about in comfort with reasonable economy and at least a chance of not causing me a walletectomy from blown turbos or clogged DPF's.