Reply With QuoteI would use silicone eater to remove it all, clean the surfaces with isopropyl or acetone and use some new anti-fungal silicone and a steady hand for a new bead.
I think our shower tray is leaking as the seal on one of the sides (the front as you stand in the shower) seems to be coming away and there are small gaps that you can push a screwdriver through, and we've noticed some damp patches on the ceiling below. Don't think its anything more than that as although we have some damp patches in the ceiling there isn't anything dripping through etc.
The silicone seal around the other two sides is fine and a lot thicker.
So is it worth just removing the silicone on that one side only and replacing it or is there is a reason I should do all the seals?
Cheers
I would use silicone eater to remove it all, clean the surfaces with isopropyl or acetone and use some new anti-fungal silicone and a steady hand for a new bead.
If possible I suggest you have a look under the shower tray and ensure the supports are still doing their job. I had problems in a new-build after a few years, settlement had caused the adjustable supports to no longer be touching, allowing the tray to flex and causing the sealant to split. This may not apply to your shower, depends on the design, but I`m a strong believer in checking and trying to establish root cause before addressing symptoms.
As previously suggested, use sealant remover to get the old sealant out and ensure the surface is as clean as possible. Look for flexing when standing in the shower, if that's evident I suggest you put something heavy in the shower whilst the sealant is setting, but if all is well there shouldn't be any flexing.
Buy the more expensive silicone sealant that contains more biocide to prevent blackening.
Good luck, I hate messing around with jobs like this.
I did this last summer, after watching a few 'how-to's' on YT. Basically what bambam and Walkerwek say. Adding to that: a warm environment helps a lot when it comes to drying out the gaps that you see after you've cut away the old sealer. New sealer won't stick on a wet surface.
Menno
Dow Corning 785 sealant is the stuff to use (as recommended by my brother in law - bathroom and kitchen fitter). Not the cheapest to buy but it does last well, does not discolour and is resistant to mould and bacteria. As said dry the surfaces fully before applying.
The new silicone won’t bond with the old stuff so will most probably leak at the join, should do the whole lot. I used a hair dryer to get the old stuff off when I done my shower a few months ago, came off no problem.Originally Posted by bambam
When applying the new silicone stand in the shower and if your hand isn’t so steady use tape either side of the joins to get a nice even bead.
Worst job there is, good luck.
I patched up a failed bit of silicone in one of our showers - a small gap around 5cm long was letting through what seemed like a disproportionate amount of water. I scrapped out the failed area and used one of the (new to me) applicators that is powered by its own supply of compressed gas (as opposed to squeezing it out by a lever powdered driver). It was the first time I've managed an even looking result without using masking tape. It's fine a year later - no further leaks so far.
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I`ll second the comments about getting everything bone-dry! If water has got behind it'll take a while to dry out, don`t be tempted to rush it in order to get the shower back in use quickly. It's a ballsache of a job, aim to do it as thoroughly as possible......and do it once!
Thanks all. I sort of knew that I should do the whole thing but was hoping that I wouldn’t have to.
I think I’ll remove all the old silicone tomorrow and start to dry it out while I get the new stuff in.
The shower tray isn’t moving or flexing - it’s pretty damn thick underneath from memory. It seems it is just the bead at the front that has failed as it isn’t as thick as the other sides.
Took one of the lights out in the ceiling and tried to have a look and it all seems dry etc with no obvious water or damp. But obviously limited as to what I can see.
Thinking of using one of those silicone profiling tools to get a neat finish.
I know it’s a pig of a job so will take my time and get it nice and dry before starting.
The Silicone profilng tools are brill. After nearly 40 yrs of “ spit on thee finger” I have been shown the light :)
I'd use a super sharp knife or the edge of a filling knife to remove as much silicon as you can before using silicon eater. With a bit of practice you can quickly cut away 90% of it in no time at all, one cut with the blade horizontal and the next vertical. With a thin filling knife you can scrape most of it away with little chance of damaging anything as a novice.
Or get yourself a Cramer silicon profiling kit #7. It contains tools for removing the old silicon plus shaping tools with attachments that produce smooth lines when straddling grout joints. Super useful if they are standard sized tiles and costs about £15.
The plastic tools are very good, for sure.
The other caveat to using your licked finger - is……… Don’t insert or remove contact lenses even after washing your hands thoroughly.
A trip to the doctor’s will ensue to anaesthetise your eye(s) with drops.
DAMHIK !
+1 to the Cramer kit. I'm crap at this kind of thing and even I got a good even finish.
Also spray a diluted WUL solution after putting the bead of sealant down & prior to using the tool, stops it sticking anywhere you don't want it...should it go wrong|
I’ve never used the new shaping tools, always wondered if they work as well as they advertise.
I’ve always found a spoon/knife/fork with the correct round profile, used the chosen profile to them mask off the top and bottom, splodged the silicone, wetted the end of the chosen profile and run it across in one smooth motion. Then immediately peeled the masking tape off.
Bit of a faff all in all.
I use CT1 for everything, it’s a sealer and an adhesive. So fixes it mechanically as well as sealing it.
This is good advice:
Also check the trap/drain. I went through the stripping, cleaning, drying sealing & smoothing, it turned out to be the area around the drain.
Good idea - will check that too. Had a look initially and that all looked good.
One thing our installer kept on about is getting the sealant in before the enclosure. If the water gets behind the enclosure without sealant it will get straight through.
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... and ventilation when you use silicone remover and the fresh silicone! It's not as nasty as it used to be, but the stuff smells nasty. A lot of bathrooms are cramped and when you want to keep it warm inside drying the gaps, it's often overlooked to open the windows when you're applying the new stuff.
Drying the gaps: as said, I did it in the summer, but a hair dryer may help (not sure). I would stay away from a paint burner though... Best to take your time drying the gaps. As in: remove the old stuff and put an electric heater in the bathroom while you're doing other jobs during the day, etc.
Menno
Ah yes ventilation. Have made that mistake before!
We have a fan heater and an electric dehumidifier that we could use to dry things out. Tempted to use the dehumidifier as it feels safer than a heater.
WD40 is also good at removing silicon. I used it only a couple of days ago when resealing our bath.
From a company that made Napalm it should be good stuff. Or, at least stick well.
Don't forget to cling film the loo seat, basin and shower traps if you go that route. Personally I'd go the heater route...
My future sil does mine always uses a spray bottle with slightly soapy water in
Having watched the video above I think I agree that a heater or hair dryer is the better way to go.
Oh there’s a prank in the making here
Is there much practical difference between the different profiling kits?
Here are just 2 that I'm looking at:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unibond-158..._t1_B077FFLMWL - this is a single item and very cheap, but looks like it might do the job.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicone-Fi...ct_top?ie=UTF8
I have scrapers etc so not too fussed about getting one in a kit. Also these will be for very occasional use so don't want to get a pro type kit.
Cheers
This make is recommended by several of the YouTube DIYers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-Cr...iy%2C93&sr=1-8
After the same problems as the OP I ripped outs out to find half the floorboards rotted with a bit of the floor joist. Replaced all rotten timber then used a load of frame sealent on the walls before I pushed the shower tray to the walls. Then I bought some plastic quadrant, put the silicone along where the wall meets the shower tray and then squeezed the quadrant onto the sealent.
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