Depends whether it's a brushed/grained finish or polished, completely different approach needed for either. NEVER go near a brushed finish with a Cape Cod.
If the finish is brushed there are two approaches. If the marking is deep it'll have to be removed, then a new finish applied. If it's light it's possible to get a big improvement by refinishing over the scratches, it won't remove them but the overall effect will be much closer to original.
I use a combination of wet and dry paper ((600 to 400 depending on how deep the original graining is), a Garryflex blue block, coarse scotchbrite, or a bufflex wheel. Any adjacent polished areas must be masked.
For polished, I never use a Cape Cod, there are far better alternatives. Again, there are two ways, wither polish over the marks to soften the edges of the scratches (not something I favour) or refinish properly by removing the scratches. Remember, a scratch is like a ploughed furrow, metal is standing proud of the surface albeit on microscopic scale. This has to be removed by levelling and you won't do that with a Cape Cod! For fine scratches take a piece of 3000grit wet and dry, wrap it around a small flat rubber block (approx. 20mm x 5mm), dip it in dilute detergent and work away at the surface. Working in the direction of the scratch is always more effective. Accept it'll look worse before it looks better, but this will create a uniform surface covered in the scratches produced by 3000grit. Repeat the process with 5000, then 7000. What you'll now have is a smooth semi-polished surface. Finish off with metal polish (Autosol is fine) on a leather-faced Bergeon buff stick. Finally finish with a soft cloth impregnated with metal polish. Cape Cod could be used for the last stage but I find it leaves fine scratches, the material is harsher than it used to be. At this stage I`d finish on a polishing wheel if possible.
NEVER use Cape Cod (or polish with a cloth) along an edge, all you'll do is soften the definition. Wrapping a Cape Cod around your finger is not the way to do it.
Trust me, these processes work, professional results can be obtained. I`m 100% self-taught where refinishing's concerned, if I can learn so can others. Trial and error on something with low value is the way to develop, I`m surprised more people don't try.
Edit: I make make my own emery sticks, I never buy them. Use evo stick to glue the appropriate grade of wet and dry to a flat wooden lolly stick. If I want something softer I use double sided tape, sometimes the flexibility is a help. Never work with a bit of paper on your finger end.....remember the principle of levelling that I described earlier.
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