Cheers. I'm very happy. It was £2,899 new, but it's only done 20 miles. I paid £750 for it.
As part of my retirement activities, I pledged to start cycling more in the New Year. This morning turned out bright and dry (but breezy... a 'perk' of living near the coast is that it is always windy in one direction or another). I went out on the road bike and did a quick 10 miles but lordy were my hands bitterly cold by the time I got home.
I have some "cold weather gloves" but frankly they proved to be far from effective. More like "mild weather gloves" TBH
Can anyone recommend some good cycling gloves? I appreciate that when cycling, your fingers are sat in a constant flow of cold air and are not the easiest part of your anatomy to keep warm.
Sent through the ether by diddling with radio waves
I use these; have done a few winters now ... I have had to put a small repair on the finger where it operates the gear change.
https://www.castelli-cycling.com/GB/.../p/4512539_010
I use these and cycle every day, including today which was pretty brisk! They are also on offer at the moment.
They aren't very thickly padded but because they are wind proof your hands don't get that cold.
I also find them good in terms of stopping pins and needles which I get off I don't wear anything with palm gel inserts.
https://saddleback.co.uk/products/sp...565b326f&_ss=r
I bought some of these recently. So far so good; almost too warm in fact when the temperature rises too much past freezing.
They're designed in Belgium, I figured that they'd know their cold weather clothing.
https://www.prendas.co.uk/products/arctic-glove
I received a pair of Castelli Perfetto Max gloves for Christmas and tried them out for the first time yesterday. It was 2c and my hands were kept warm so I was very happy with them.
Not cheap but what is when you have hobbies?
Thanks. I shall have a browse (as I now have use of my fingers!)
Sent through the ether by diddling with radio waves
Have a look at Galibier Barrier Deep Winter Gloves. I've had a pair since last Winter and they have proved excellent in all conditions including rain. At £33 they are great value too and the company are based in Northern Ireland. https://www.galibier.cc/product/barr...ycling-gloves/
Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk
I converted a Charge Grater to drop bars and 650b wheels. Original tyres were 700/32 I think. Handling was a bit dulled on road and it was noticeably slower, but it was great for bridleways where it was used most. Bottom bracket height was lower but not an issue where I used it.
After wanting one for as years, finally got a Curtis.
Technical question, the left crank leg keeps moving loose along the crank spline and needs reseating every few rides. I can't torque up the bolts any tighter so aside from loctite on the bolts is there anything I'm doing wrong or being stupid?
Hard to say. Pics, make and model might help someone diagnose.
Good thinking. I'll take a photo later.
Frame is a Scott team issue with integrated bottom bracket, crank set is xtr, both from 2004ish
Can't be sure without seeing it but I suspect riding it while loose will have damaged the splines and/or the crank arm. The latter coming loose no matter how tight you cinch up the bolts points in that direction.
Which would mean new ones unfortunately.
Check the splines or inside of the crank arm hasn’t got compacted hair or mud in it, Maybe it needs a spacer washer, really need to see it in good images or ideally in person, if you are near me give us a shout
RIAC
Crank arms reverse side, near pedal thread will have M code and crank arm length.
It's an M960 crank set.
Here's the gap after one ride, I think a spacer might be the answer because even tapping it home with the bolts loose it never fully faces up, so I'm causing it to flex as I pedal?
I thought maybe crud was the issue but I cleaned it out with a toothbrush a couple of weeks ago but no good.
View from the side
Where you based Pete?
RIAC
Top Google result here is an exploded diagram on PDF of what your assembly should include:
https://www.google.com/search?q=http..._attribution=1
Also - and it's hard to tell in the first, darker, picture - there looks to be a crack in your bottom bracket shell.
Last edited by Bondurant; 12th February 2024 at 11:56.
It's missing the compression cap, which compresses the whole crank set together.
See the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqBtB8Kyl2U
That sounds like the way forward!
Now all I need is to find one?!?!?
I'm in South Wales
Whoever fitted your crank arm needs a good kicking!
Give SJS a call: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets-shimano-spares/
Last edited by cbh; 12th February 2024 at 12:10.
The compression cap is just to preload the bearings really and won't be why the things moving. However, the missing spacer and particularly the keeper will be an issue
I'd get the bits, strip it, clean it and put it all back together and see how it is. If you've been riding it loose for a while it might be foobared and time for new crank unfortunately
All this assuming BB and BB shell is all good.
Sent from my M2101K6G using Tapatalk
Reminds me of the days of bullseye cranks, with press fit bearings in a Klein. Bloody nightmare!
Sent from my M2101K6G using Tapatalk
Ordered all exterior that plate that looks like a number 9, couldn't find it
Try your LBS for the missing part.
I think checking that possible crack in the BB shell is probably the first order of business. If that is actually a crack I don't think it much matters what you do with the crankset.
It's not cracked, it's a shadow.
The led is the cadence sensor for my swytch kit 😎
I'm really struggling to find this part, Y1E598250
Can any of you fine folks help me ID an alternative?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainset...late-1ge-9805/
This may well fit. Probably all the same
Google Shimano Safety Plate and see what you find
Sent from my M2101K6G using Tapatalk
Who installed the Swytch kit, probably lost the bits then
Sent from my M2101K6G using Tapatalk
Out in the Cotswolds on Sunday...near Minchinhampton Golf Club.
Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk
Got the bits missing and I'm a bit confused...
Taking the arm off and cleaning it up, there seems to be nothing for the security plate pin to slot into. It's smooth so I don't see how the plate fits and will help?
The end bolt does compress the arm onto the crank, so I'm not quite sure if that's all I need.
Any thoughts?
Cheers
Is there not a hole on the underside of the spindle like this:
And a video on how to do it https://youtu.be/b9VBeHdAfOw
Last edited by cbh; 17th February 2024 at 19:05.
No I can't see anything?!?!