Rolex Explorer 214270 - Review and impressions...

[AIDM]

Rolex Explorer 214270




Intro & potted model history, (skip to pics below for the uninterested!)


Early days...

Much has been written about the development of the Explorer and the Rolex marketing machine has been in operation for many years linking their watches with adventures and Adventurers long before the successful ascent of Everest for which it has become intrinsically linked, whatever the truth of that particular mythology may be.

The ‘Explorer’ itself is a direct descendant of the early ‘bubbleback’ oyster cased Rolex watches and according to Martin Skeet and Nick Ural in their excellent ‘Vintage Rolex Sports Models – A complete visual reference & unauthorised history ’ reference book, (from which I have taken most of the information on history here) the first prototype models, (6098) were launched in the early 1950’s and issued to the ’53 Everest expedition. Neither the 6098, nor the following 6298 models actually had the Explorer name on the dial, but the latter was the first to use the now instantly recognizable ‘3,6,9’ style ‘Quarter Arabic’ dial.

These were followed by the 6150, later versions were the first fitted with the ‘Mercedes’ handset and the 6350, basically a re-referenced 6150 but the first to sport the ‘Explorer’ dial text.

A few more iterations were released, including 6610, 5500 and 5504 sporting various developments such as the flush fitting end links for the bracelet, (earlier models had straight ended bracelets with the resulting gap between the lugs) and passing anomalies such as red printed depth ratings, ‘super precision text and a white seconds hand, before the launch in 1959 of the Explorer 1016.

The 1016 was the first Explorer with the exact form and aesthetic that has gone on to become the modern watch, with the minute track arrangement around the dial edge, ‘Superlative Chronometer’ text, Quarter Arabic dial, Mercedes hands and Oyster case and bracelet that have become synonymous with the model.

Many further minor iterations of the 35.5mm 1016 followed, along with the smaller 34mm cased 5500 models, perhaps most notable, (certainly in collectors eyes) being the truly rare ‘Space Dweller’ version of the 1016 released in 1963 to commemorate a visit to Japan by the astronauts of NASAs Mercury Space Programme.


Explorer II...

The 1655 Explorer II arrived in 1971 and was replaced in 1985 by the 16550, itself replaced by the 16570 and more recently the 42mm 216570. I have owned a 16570 in the past and very much enjoyed it whilst I had it, but ultimately the call of other things and a couple of minor niggles, (mainly the tiny and insubstantial crown) led to Sales Corner. But this review is about the Explorer, rather than the Ex II...


Modern Era...

For the ‘original’ Explorer a big change came in 1989 with the release of the 14270 that heralded many ‘upgrades’ including Sapphire crystal, gloss dial with white gold surrounds to the markers, a redesigned 36mm case and the calibre 3000 movement. The 114270 followed in 2001, upgraded with the 31 jewelled 3130 calibre, (compared to the 27 jewels in the cal 3000) and solid end links to the bracelet, but retaining the 36mm case and pressed clasp. Later 114270 models included the ‘Rolex Branded Rehaut’, (RBR) ie. ROLEXROLEXROLEX along with the serial number engraved around the rehaut.

But arguably the biggest shake up to the Rolex Explorer range came in 2010 with the release of the 214270. The most obvious change being the increase of case diameter from the traditional 36mm to a more modern 39mm. The movement was also upgraded to the calibre 3132, along with changes to the dial, bracelet and clasp, full details of which are discussed below...


The Review


Why the 214270 for me..?

I had been a long time admirer of the Explorer and especially of the older 1016 models, but the 36mm diameter case had always held me back. My wrist is not overly large at between 7.5” and 7.75” and my personal comfort zone for watches lies between 38mm and 42mm, depending of course on a number of associated factors such as depth, lug to lug measurements etc...

I had read many posts stating that the 36mm Explorer was the way to go, the lack of a wide bezel making the watch wear bigger, etc. etc. and in fact I tended to agree that the proportions of the 36mm, at least in pictures, seemed more appropriate, more historically apt, but still the nagging issue with the size bothered me.

However, the urge to try grew until one of my standard Ebay saved searches threw up a rather beaten up looking Zeno Explorer at reasonable money. I managed to win the auction and eagerly awaited its arrival...





Oh, what a beautiful little thing it was. A quick scrub up, a polish and a touch of polywatch on the plexi crystal had it looking like new. But oh, how disappointed was I in the size. I tried, honestly I tried, but on my wrist, (and in my head) the 36mm case looked like a boys watch. Often, when I change between one of my smaller 38mm watches to something at 42mm, there is a short period of adjustment while my eye gets used to the change, but despite wearing the ZEX for a fair while, the adjustment never came. It looked small as I strapped it on, it looked small every time I looked at it over the next few hours. In truth, I knew the second I unwrapped it that it wasn’t going to work for me.

So that left the 214270. A watch that I had been considering along with the 36mm models for quite some time and a watch that had been growing on me the whole time. A couple of sales left me in the lucky position of having enough in the watch pot for something nice and the decision came down to three; another Seadweller, perhaps a 16660 matte dial; a 42mm Explorer II 216750; a 39mm Explorer 214270.

In reality, (and despite a period of my usual procrastination) there was no contest and a great offer of 15% off list for a BNIB UK AD supplied watch left me with no more thinking required. A deal was struck and one of the nicest, subtle, perfectly proportioned watches I have ever been privileged enough to own arrived...


The box and papers...

This was my first experience of the new style Rolex box and strangely photos I had seen had left me a little cold.

But with it in front of me as I slid off the white card slip and exposed the light green outer box with the embossed Rolex crown it just felt very special. Lifting off the lid and easing out the green leather inner box with applied gold crown the first thing that hits you is the leather ‘new car’ smell and how much sturdier and sold the box feels in comparison to the older style I was more accustomed to.





Inside, the plush, sculpted lining nestles a nicely formed watch cushion, along with the hang tag, chronometer seal, cards and booklets, the latter secreted within their own little compartment in the lid.

The watch comes with a Rolex Explorer booklet, again nicely embossed with a representation of the watch and containing operation instructions, some history and specification and details of the guarantee and after sales services. With that is a green leather wallet containing a booklet with the Guarantee, the Official Chronometer Certification and worldwide service centre addresses and the credit card style warranty card showing details of the client, (AD ref) and the model and serial number data.

But the most important thing in the box was the watch itself...!


The case...

Diameter: 39 mm
Material: 904L steel
Bezel: fixed, smooth
Winding crown: Twinlock
Crystal: sapphire
Waterproof: 100 m (330 ft)




The style of the Explorer 1016 remains firmly entrenched in the lines and significant proportions of the watch, but have been scaled up slightly to provide the larger diameter. The sides and bezel are polished to a mirror finish and the tops of the lugs are brushed to provide a pleasing contrast.








The twinlock crown is just about big enough for my taste, it screws in and out with two full turns and, (possibly not by design!) the Rolex crown aligns perfectly when fully tightened.

The case back in true Explorer style is plain and unadorned by text or imagery and fits in cleanly to the case.





The crystal is Sapphire and sits proud of the bezel by a few millimetres. The case is rated to 100m water resistance, plenty for my desk diving, (or should that be desk exploring?) needs.

The lug width remains at the original 20mm.

I suspect that many will have differing opinions on how Rolex have gone about upscaling the case from 36mm to 39mm, but to my eye the results are perfect, retaining the essential look of the Explorer, but in a case diameter more suited to modern tastes. What is perhaps more noteworthy is that Rolex stayed at 39mm and resisted the potential temptation to go larger. It is, of course all subjective, but at 39mm I consider the watch maintains the true Explorer ‘feel’ whilst being more suitable and appropriate to modern desirability.

Cont/