Traser P6500 - Is it water resistant or not?

Hi All,

New to the forum and looking for some of your experience.

I am seriously looking at adding a Traser to my collection as a daily basher. Love the sterile look and need the second time zone on the bezel, hence why I am leaning towards the 6500.

I understand the water resistant rating is 30m, and have read, both here and elsewhere, that it has been tested at 100m, rated at 30m for sales and marketing reason; and that it is essentially the same as the Luminox 3001 - which is rated at 200m.

Before I take the plunge (forgive the pun) - can anyone let me know if they have swam/snorkelled with a 6500 without issue.

Thanks for your help. :?

[dashiel]

Hi RobP, welcome aboard. Enjoy your stay on the forum.

I have a Traser 6502 and it's rated to 200 meters and I think the 6500 is rated to 30 meters and 6502 and above are 200 meters.. The 6500 does not appear to have tritium on the second hand as the rest of the 650x series do. Also the auto 2824 series appear to be rated to 100 meters.

Hi Dashiel,

Thanks for the welcome.

Have looked at the 6502, and the others - but it is the second time zone on the bezel that I need, not the 60 min counter as I have a number of other dive watches that I would use for this purpose.

Second hand doesn't bother me - but personally and professionally I could end up in the water at any time and would prefer not to have to worry about my watch.

Therefore if I could get some confirmation from members that they have used their 6500 in the water on a semi-regular basis - I think I would be sold!.

[VA]

From what I know, and I have to say that Martin (Crusader) is the resident expert when it comes to Trasers, the 6500 is rated to 30m but has been independently tested to 100m. It uses the same non-screw down crown as the Luminox "Navy Seals" diver that is rated to 200m.

feel free to correct me people :)


VA

[Michael in Frisco, Texas]

I would like to offer the following story of my personal experience with the Luminox Navy SEAL "diver" watch.

It was a Father's Day gift from my wife and children six or seven years ago. I wore it regularly. It kept pretty good time. It came with a one-year warranty.

The following summer, about 14 months after purchase (and now completely out of warranty) I was swimming in about 10 feet of water. Later that evening, I noticed moisture under the crystal. This was not just condensed humidity, this was rolling liquid. I contacted Luminox and reported this problem with their "diver" watch. I was promptly informed that, since it was out of warranty, they were not going to do anything.

I took it to a local watch repairer. I was present when the caseback was removed. The entire battery and movement compartment were damaged beyond repair. I was furious with Luminox, and have not purchased or endorsed any of their products since. Needless to say, my children didn't understand why the gift they had bought me was broken. They were upset for a while. My wife, on the other hand was furious. She has not been too keen on my watch purchases since, despite the explanation that this was likely a one time fluke failure...

Of course, your mileage may vary... This is just my own experience...

[Griff]

I would not trust ANY make of watch rated 30M for swimming

Water Resistance-What Does It Mean?



by Neil Rosenfeld



Watches are often worn in places that expose them to water. How does
this affect the watch and what should we expect in terms of resistance to
water? A common misconception is the term "waterproof". This term is no longer
used in conjunction with the ability of a watch to withstand exposure to
water. No watch is truly waterproof. The safe exposure to water of a watch
depends on many factors. Testing is done in both a wet or dry pressure
environment. Wet testing is done under pressure, but without motion of the
watch or wearer since this can vary so much from person to person.



The proper term to use is "water resistance", not "waterproof". The
measure of the ability to resist water penetration into the watch is a
function of temperature and pressure. It is common to see watches rated in
atmospheres of pressure (ATM) or measured in feet or meters of depth. For
example, a watch rated resistant to water at a pressure of 1 atmosphere is
rated at 33 feet or 10 meters. This means that the watch is safe to use where
it may be splashed or exposed to perspiration. An occasional accidental
immersion may be safe. The key here is that the watch cannot be exposed to
water that is under any pressure.



A watch rated water resistant at a pressure of 3 atmospheres is equal to
30 meters or 100 feet of resistance. It is safe from splashes and occasional
immersion in water, but not safe to swim with.



At 5 atmospheres (165 feet or 50 meters) a watch is safe to wear in
shallow water, but not safe for scuba diving. A rating of 10 atmospheres (330
feet or 100 meters) allows wear in a pool, for sports or poolside diving. At
15 atmospheres(500 feet or 150 meters) your watch is suitable for snorkeling,
diving in a pool and wearing during sports play.



At 20 atmospheres (660 feet or 200 meters) allows for use in snorkeling,
and scuba diving at depths that don't require helium. Watch water resistance
even goes up to 1,000 meters. This is a designation for a watch that is
suitable for deep sea diving. Some of these watches come with a helium release
valve that allow helium that has entered the watch during decompression from a
deep dive, to escape from the watch. This keeps the watch from exploding from
the pressure. Of course, most of us will never have to worry about this.



These ratings are not absolute. They depend on the temperature as well.
Never wear a watch of any rating in a hot tub. The heat will deform the seals
that protect the mechanism and cause leakage. The age of a watch is also
important as the seals can become brittle with age. Chemical exposure can also
degrade the seal integrity causing problems. Whenever a watch is opened (for
inspection or battery change for example), the seals must be inspected and
replaced if necessary.



Knowing the limitations of your timepiece can protect your investment
from water damage. Understanding what water resistance ratings mean is the
first step.With proper care, your watch will last for many years.

[Michael in Frisco, Texas]

Griff,

I hope I am not misunderstanding the context of your post...

The Luminox watch mention above was an allegedly 200 meter water resistant diver watch.

[Michael in Frisco, Texas]

Griff,

I hope I am not misunderstanding the context of your post...

The Luminox watch mention above was an allegedly 200 meter water resistant diver watch.

[Grath]

Griff,

I hope I am not misunderstanding the context of your post...

The Luminox watch mention above was an allegedly 200 meter water resistant diver watch.
_________________
Michael

[Crusader]

I have a P6500 as a daily wearer, and it hasn't failed me, in water or out of it.

If you need both high water-resistance and the best bezel in the world (12h :wink: ), perhaps you can ask to have the 12h-bezel mounted on a watch with screw-down crown and metal case?

[Nimrod]

I have both the P6500 and the P6502. Used the latter for swimming no probs. dare not risk the P6500 but as Martin said before I gather you used it for swimming with no adverse effects but i am not that brave. Both models tough as old boots. They take any knocks within reason and come back bouncing!

Regards

Peter (Nimrod)

[xpatUSA]

. . . Have looked at the 6502, and the others - but it is the second time zone on the bezel that I need, not the 60 min counter as I have a number of other dive watches that I would use for this purpose.

I take it that you know that the bezel is uni-directional which, on occasion, I have found mildly irritating. Why it should follow dive-watch design in this respect has never been too clear to me, except that the original P650 is the same.

Can't help you specifically on diving/swimming with the Traser P6500 but would agree that 30m resistance is not generally recommended for such activities.

cheers,

[Griff]

I hope none of you with the aforementioned posts above saying the Luminox watch mention above was an allegedly 200 meter water resistant diver watch are not misunderstanding the context of my post.
:shock: :D :lol:

I have a P6500 as a daily wearer, and it hasn't failed me, in water or out of it.

If you need both high water-resistance and the best bezel in the world (12h :wink: ), perhaps you can ask to have the 12h-bezel mounted on a watch with screw-down crown and metal case?

Thanks Martin,

If I understand you correctly you have used your P6500 in water (while swimming or other activity) without any drama's. Have I got this right?

Also interested in your suggestion of having a 12 hour bezel mounted on one of the other models - perhaps the P6504. How would I go about that? Who would I need to contact? Any suggestions?

Thanks - Rob

. . . Have looked at the 6502, and the others - but it is the second time zone on the bezel that I need, not the 60 min counter as I have a number of other dive watches that I would use for this purpose.

I take it that you know that the bezel is uni-directional which, on occasion, I have found mildly irritating. Why it should follow dive-watch design in this respect has never been too clear to me, except that the original P650 is the same.

Hi xpatUSA,

Thanks for the response. I was aware that the bezel was uni-directional, and although not ideal - it is something I can live with!

Rob

[Crusader]

If I understand you correctly you have used your P6500 in water (while swimming or other activity) without any drama's. Have I got this right?

I have got it wet in the Baltic, but then again, I tend to stay on the surface (being more of aviation-inspired person, wet feet is bad news :wink: ). But my watch has been repeatedly pressure tested to 10 bar, so I have no reason to be anxious.

Also interested in your suggestion of having a 12 hour bezel mounted on one of the other models - perhaps the P6504. How would I go about that? Who would I need to contact? Any suggestions?

Find a seller who offers the full range, and services the watches, and ask him whether a swap is possible, and what it would cost. At the most (provided a swapping of the bezels is possible, and they don't swap 1:1) it will cost you what a replacement P6500 bezel would cost plus some labor.

But I can see your point: the 12h bezel is the most practical bezel by far, and if my 6500 were broken, I would seriously consider an all-titanium replacement with a bezel swap as described above. 8)

[hologon]

I know this is an extremely old thread, but I picked up a Traser P6500 about 9 months ago after reading Crusader's review and comments. It had been my daily wearer on a black NATO ever since.

Recently I noticed a couple of scratches on the mineral crystal and sent her to one of my favored watch modders in the US to put in a sapphire crystal. A little lighter in the wallet, I have a much more solid feeling (and heavier) crystal in the P6500.

As a side advantage, I asked him to pressure-test it.

Came through at 10ATM with no trouble at all.

Another independent verification of the water resistance of this lovely piece, despite its lack of screw-down crown and back.

[seikopath]

Had mine for years, swum with it without any problems. It's one of my favourite beaters.

[zippy]

I know this is an extremely old thread, but I picked up a Traser P6500 about 9 months ago after reading Crusader's review and comments. It had been my daily wearer on a black NATO ever since.

Recently I noticed a couple of scratches on the mineral crystal and sent her to one of my favored watch modders in the US to put in a sapphire crystal. A little lighter in the wallet, I have a much more solid feeling (and heavier) crystal in the P6500.

As a side advantage, I asked him to pressure-test it.

Came through at 10ATM with no trouble at all.

Another independent verification of the water resistance of this lovely piece, despite its lack of screw-down crown and back.

Why didn't you try Graham Green the authorised UK traser dealer ? He swapped out my mineral crystal for a sapphire one on my traser, it was a few years ago mind you but I remember that , a service and pressure test came to approx £60 iirc.

[hologon]

Why didn't you try Graham Green the authorised UK traser dealer ? He swapped out my mineral crystal for a sapphire one on my traser, it was a few years ago mind you but I remember that , a service and pressure test came to approx £60 iirc.

Well, a couple of reasons. :)

1) I live in the US, so sending it to the UK would entail customs fees both directions, 2) I prefer to support my "local" watchmaker, with whom I've done a lot of business in the past, 3) It cost about 60USD including the pressure test, and 4) I didn't expect an authorized dealer would be willing to modify one of their own watches like that. I did see that Martin had a dealer change the bezels on his, but I thought that he could have had a special relationship.

If I were in the UK, I might have considered trying Graham Green.

[zippy]

Well, a couple of reasons. :)

1) I live in the US, so sending it to the UK would entail customs fees both directions, 2) I prefer to support my "local" watchmaker, with whom I've done a lot of business in the past, 3) It cost about 60USD including the pressure test, and 4) I didn't expect an authorized dealer would be willing to modify one of their own watches like that. I did see that Martin had a dealer change the bezels on his, but I thought that he could have had a special relationship.

If I were in the UK, I might have considered trying Graham Green.

Fair point's. I hadn't realised you were based in the States. For your information though, Green's were more than happy to swop out the H3 vials to any stock colour I wanted as well. I'm not sure if a US dealer would offer that but there didn't seem to be any kind of issue.

[hologon]

Fair point's. I didn't realise you were based in the States. For your information though, Green's were more than happy to swop out the H3 vials to any stock colour I wanted as well. I'm not sure if a US dealer would offer that but there didn't seem to be any kind of issue.

Oooooooh... That would be useful knowledge if/when I need to have the vials replaced. Although, having all blue vials would be very cool too.

Thanks for the info!