I suggest looking at the road rather than your handlebars but thats just me...
You've clearly never ridden London roads! The roads here are so poor that ride quality is abysmal whatever you do unfortunately. Takes a toll on the components too I can tell you.
i ride continental 4 seasons from autumn through spring and then usually am in need for a new set. The fair weather tyres are either continental 4000s or Michelin race pros (a lovely tyre to ride those).
what are your recommendations?
Maybe I should try tubs. I always travel light but with a spare tube and puncture repair kit. I've had days (thankfully rare) where I've had 2 or more punctures in one commute. My all time record is 5! (And I am not a gutter rider either.) Don't really fancy the idea of carrying a spare tyre.
But punctures aside, my point is more about the road quality. It is a patchwork of potholes, shoddy repairs, awful surfaces and debris.
I had enough of punctures with the Gatorskins I had, but being 23c I was asking for it on the commute, then the chain always needs setting up and adjusting otherwise it would come off, I had the bike over a year. Had upgraded most things on it and just hated going down a hill on my way to work with no brakes in the wet.... Rim brakes are fine but can be scary in the wet.
I now have Spesh 28c tyres with puncture protection also and not had any punctures for over a year, riding the same roads and more but I had had 2 crashes instead so it kind of balances it out I guess.
I may be about to screw things over for myself, but I've done 3k on continental 4 seasons without incident. These ride well.
I think on the commuter I'll be riding them all year.
I also have Boras with tubs. I honestly prefer my Shamals with Michelin pro race.
Im on 25mm 4 seasons. Very happy with them.
I use 28mm 4 Seasons on my crosser for tow paths, gravel tracks etc in the summer. They do seem very robust and puncture resistant.
Sods law that one!
Depends.
If it's just a small hole then some latex sealant usually does the trick. If it's bigger and the sealant doesn't work then it's easier to rip the old tub off and fit a replacement. Takes no longer than a clincher, although the new tub is never as well glued on at the old one so it's worth taking it a bit more careful on the way home.
I tend to carry a really lightweight Tufo tub under my saddle which would get me home but I wouldn't want to leave on.
If that one goes and the sealant doesn't work then I am left calling the support team.
New shinyness.... Surly Karate Monkey OPS build...
Very nice!!! I think next year I will have to get a "steel" framed mtb!
Must be time for some more small wheel offerings
Just been sorting out my garage with new travel arrangements in the offing. Sold the big wheelers keeping the wifes 1995 almost as new Brompton L3. Added a 2 year old Brompton M3 and changed a few things to suit me particular tastes - Brooks Swift leather saddle, Carradice cape role and front bag. Rides very nicely - just returned from a beer run to Waitrose on it in fact.....
Just back from a quick spin before the wife wakes up... Thought this was quite fun...
Just getting ready to head out to Arundel market, hoping the paths aren't too muddy
Dunno about that. I think it depends on the original glue job, the spare's prep work and a bit of care and luck on the day. I changed out a rear on the road about six months ago. At the time I was feeling pretty chuffed for getting the spare on so straight (better than I've ever done at home, even with a truing/gluing stand) yet annoyed that I'd have to take it off when home and do it all over again and likely lose that nice straight setup. Yet, when arriving home and trying to peel off the spare (it was a new tyre and the same as what I took off) and then put a nice fresh layer of glue down, the damn thing was so well attached there was no need whatsoever to remove it. It's still on the wheel.
Heh. Join the club. My current three represent my third, fourth and fifth (though number one and two have gone). Maurizio has had a decent amount of positive influence on the company's offerings. He's useful for information, too. Personally answered all my queries when I was buying the NOS steel X-Status frame.
Clear coat. If the labelling is under a coating of clear 'lacquer' or polyurethane then you'll want to get that glossy finish back when you've removed the labels.
My Surly Disc Trucker:
Good all-rounder.
The Bob Jackson:
Since selling my Van Nicholas, I am missing a light road bike. Our bike-to-work scheme is calling to me, especially as you can get quite a lot for the ?£1k limit.
Just sorted a deal on this Sabbath Mondays Child frame and forks. Need to find some bits to bolt on to it now.
i'm guessing the present owner is keeping them.
It’s a Racktime Addit. German brand, very solidly made, and not too spendy.
http://www.racktime.com/product.php?xn=16
On the front (not pictured) I have a Salsa Down Under, which works well with the disc caliper etc.
http://salsacycles.com/components/ca...own_under_rack
Here's my trusty mode of transportation here in Copenhagen:
We love our bicycles, and over 50% of Copenhageners ride their bikes to work, and the city is designed for cyclists basically. I tried riding a bicycle in London once and was nearly killed a dozen times!
This came yesterday, need to get a bit of cross training in for a couple of sportives next month or this could be the year my son beats me :(
I do look like some kind of giant radioactive knock off Chinese Robocop riding it though :)
Interesting. Not seen one of those before. Just watched a video. Look great in California. Not sure I'd venture out where I live though!
Did a quick 10 miles last night, luckily I live in middle of nowhere but if anyone saw me i'd be burned for being a witch.
Now its peeing it down so thats that for a few days :(
No, I got mine from Rosebikes if I remember rightly:
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/r...-x6ZzZjY_D_BwE
Postage sounds a lot but it probably wouldn’t be much less from a UK supplier, and Rose are very good.
I haven’t used it much loaded up but it seems pretty good. Mounts very solidly indeed as the horizontals are twinned to go on the Surly fork mounts which are on both the inside and outside of the fork blades. I used bolts that go straight through the fork rather than separate ones inside and outside and that seems to add to the rigidity. It’s also designed for the front of dropout type lower mounts that the Surly has. I chose it because 1) it works well around a front disc and 2) it seems to hold the load lower down than many designs. It also holds the load more forward than some designs, which I was a bit dubious about, but it seems to work well with the Surly’s geometry.
I was changing a puncture too yesterday for one of the guys I was riding with. Amazed he still hasn't learned to do it himself so had to hop back a couple km to rescue him. Was on the tail end of the ride but still 60km from home so would've made no difference on tubs. Luckily clinchers are a quick and easy change.
Cant remember who asked me about a Carbon 29er but I have one that could be for sale, Specialized Stumpjumper 29er 2013, Mint as ever will be cleaned up and advertised in time but if anyone here wants then give me a shout, its a Large
RIAC
Oops...
You helped with a clincher flat or a tubular flat? For speed, a competent tubular user, and one that doesn't glue too severely, can change out a tubular in half the time it takes to replace a clincher's tube, let alone fix a clincher's puncture.
I've ridden more than 60km on a flat rear tubular, but only on a hotmix road surface. Thing is, the road was straight. I didn't even realise I had a puncture until I hit some windy bits.
Riding flat on chip seal is far less enjoyable.
It was a clincher puncture. Didn't take more than a few minutes to change and in the context of a 9 hour ride, a couple minutes here or there don't make a huge difference!
I'm not saying clinchers are better than tubs though. As I said above, I have never tried tubs so would be silly to offer an uninformed opinion!