Reply With QuoteThats a pity as you'll never know that the OP already brought toggles for this. So under cutting into a solid board in this instance would be a solution searching for a problem.Originally Posted by wycni8
No I never read the thread. I also never researched the undercutting tool which can be used to cut space in solid materials into which the wings can fit.
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Thats a pity as you'll never know that the OP already brought toggles for this. So under cutting into a solid board in this instance would be a solution searching for a problem.
Then I wish him every success with his toggles.
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Little research and an attempt to use the toggle bolts thus morning has lead to me ordering some togglers. I will post the results
I dont think you have enough space behind the plywood to use the toggles,
and I am not having a go here, as I genuinely want you to have this finished, but if you had done as I recommended, you would be done by now.
to be fair, I use a multi tool like this to cut through the plasterboard/ply
takes minutes and you dont have to be that careful with straight lines as its going straight back in once the span is in place.
anyway, good luck with it all and dont start spending too much money on stupid fixings, I know I dont.
there was room behind the ply but the bolts weren't long enough, I thought your suggestion would have been the best plan if the ply hadn't have been there but the ply is there and therefore there isn't a need to cut out and add reinforcement.
the wall is 50mm thick and backed with timber so it will hold 23kg I just need to secure the plate to the wall
Yes I seen the ply, but in my opinion there is too much plasterboard in front to allow a proper fixing, my concern is the weight on the front of the plaster board, you will see the bolts drop down, tearing through the plasterboard and in turn weakening the fixings on the ply behind.
the ply behind is just not thick enough, and I mean just.
for what its worth, as it is at the moment, you would be better using big wood screws rather than those daft togglers, but you would have the same problem with the screw drop.
one other solution, is that a solid wall at the back of it? if so you could use these, they would anchor into the wall behind and balance the weight on the ply.
they come in various lengths with flat top bolts too (anchor bolts)
totally missed this reply, but here is a guy that has done it, and done it properly.
Last edited by soundood; 27th November 2016 at 19:23.
tbh you just need to buy longer bolts that will allow you to use the toggles or as a number of us have recommended use long wood screws to fix into the ply.
Rawlbolts ? Now come on, that's massive overkill on a massive scale 'dood. It's a tele he's hanging up there, not a gravestone for Christ's sake !
Also, if it's a modern build, the blockwork (which he won't need to fix to anyway) will probably be klinker, fibolite or thermalite. All 3 being sh!te with rawlbolt type fixings. Chemical anchors are what would be needed
Last edited by reggie747; 27th November 2016 at 20:22.
At this rate you mite get it up for Xmas,just put some screws in ,modern TVs don't weigh much anyway
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yes depending on wall of course, chemical anchors or these, but I dont think they are overkill at all, they are what they are, secure fixing into solid wall.Rawlbolts ? Now come on, that's massive overkill on a massive scale 'dood. It's a tele he's hanging up there, not a gravestone for Christ's sake !
Also, if it's a modern build, the blockwork (which he won't need to fix to anyway) will probably be klinker, fibolite or thermalite. All 3 being sh!te with rawlbolt type fixings. Chemical anchors are what would be needed
I mean what would you call coach bolts then? these are supplied with most TV mounts, most will supply 6-8 bolts, and as standard I would fit all 6-8 onto a solid wall, overkill?
considering how heavy the TV is, two of these could hold it, but that's not the point really, the reason you use 6-8 is because you can/its safer, 6-8 couch bolts could probably take over 100kg hanging vertically on a wall.
anyways, I have stated how I would do it, what others think or the OP does is up to them, and I wish them the best of luck with it.
There's DIY solutions and professional solutions.
I'm with Soundood.
There are options that are not fit for purpose, options that are fit for purpose, options that are over kill and then some that are plainly not suitable for use in plasterboard and ply.
I'm not with dood.
Just buy a TV table and relax ☺
I think the only realistic option is to move house.
Each job is different and needs assessing individually.
When you are doing it for a living, when you offer a warranty, when your value your reputation and when you are liable, then you do the job that satisfies your conscience and doesn't keep you awake at night.
Do they have the People's Court in the UK?
https://youtu.be/KFchdJmq3XE
So am I 100% and for this application, 'overkill' gives a big comfort zone without having to worry about the holding capability of the fixings into plasterboard and ply.
TBH the choice is yours but I defy you to pull six of these out of plasterboard:
http://www.diy.com/departments/rawlp.../254472_BQ.prd
They really are solid, reliable fixings.
I'm sure at 70kg I could hang on one without shifting it, never mind six.
For peice of mind there's also glowing reviews on this product.
"Waste of time and money
Used these to put a curtain rail with two brackets on the wall, rail is very light and curtains not very heavy either. The packet said medium duty and specifically mentions they can be used for curtain rails. They felt firm at first, but after just over a fortnight they had worked loose and were coming out of the wall. I now have four holes in the wall, no curtain pole and need to find another way to solve the problem."
Dood how is the op going to fix wall bolts of chem fix to plaster board and ply? There is not block work behind to fix into, it's a stud partition.
In this case getting a good fix is about clamping force between the back side of the ply and the TVs bracket think of it like a vice and in this case for a TVs weighing 23KG is safely achieved by screw or toggle in multiple points ensuring the load is spread accross a large area.
This is true, it's why I assessed that wall anchors and chem fix are not suitable for fixing into a stud partition wall as there is no block work to fix too.
As above is this case it's about clamping force.
Don't forget some professional will sell solutions that are plainly not fit for perpose simply because it is easier or cheaper or what's already in the van.
While we should respect professional opinion, that does not mean we can't question and challenge it.
That's fine but I'm halfway down my third large box since 2011 so that's probably several hundred up with no issues and plenty of weight on them
I'm thinking taking plasterboard out, fitting stud work, putting the plasterboard back, decorating etc is definitely, definitely a great solution we can all get behind and back 100%, no problem, good work, but I also think for a 23kg telly it might be very slightly over the top. That's all.
Professional what? Handyman?
Don't think I've ever had a professional in where I haven't thought 'I could do a better looking job than that'.
Your question is unclear, could you clarify please.
I was agreeing with you. I was just trying to get my head round a professional handyman.
Ah cool
the question was asked a few posts previous as to whether there was or not a solid wall behind all the ply and plasterboard, hence the following answers about anchor bolts and chemical fixings.
has he got that ******* bracket up yet?
this is exactly the problem I was talking about, you can 'clamp' that bracket all you want to the plasterboard, but the 'clamped' bracket can and will slide, with the bottom corners sinking into the board, and the rest of the bolts cutting down into the plasterboard,
there is no 'teeth' as such behind the bracket to grip into the board,
this is not all made up in my head, the amount of times I have seen this is unreal, yes its 'only' 23kg, next time your at a gym pick up a 20kg and a 5kg plate together and then tell me 'only'
for what its worth, the way I do it with timber across the uprights? is only marginally more expensive than putting up the bracket onto solid wall.
when done properly it takes no time at all, people just get the wind up, when you tell them the plasterboard has to come off, once its done, the penny drops for them, its easy and safer, with only minor redecoration afterwards.
oddly enough I am off to one tomorrow, to fix a large mirror to a plasterboard wall, I am doing it as a favour for a good customer of mine (landlord) while I put in a circuit for an electric oven.
same procedure, remove platerboard and span the uprights with batons, it will take me no more than an hour.
I am off to bed now, why is the run up to xmas so busy for trades? any of you other guys in trades run off your feet at the mo? I only just got in after a 7 am start, same again tomorrow probably and the day after.
Last edited by soundood; 28th November 2016 at 22:11.
Sounood have you ever tried Rigfix?
I have seen them, and also being used but I have never used them myself, I think the thing that puts me off is the alen key fitting on some I seen, getting torque on those can be a pain, with the possibility of stripping them out.
again thats just my concern, as I have never used them, for me most of the time into solid wall is just plugs and coach bolts, driven in with an impact driver, 6-8 of them are solid enough for me.
hung a 58 inch on a cantilever hinge bracket the other week with those, the right size drill bit on the SDS drill is the secret with them, as you need to allow for 'hole blow' I call it, when the correct size bit, drills the hole bigger, once that is done its a pain,
I use a bit 2 mm smaller than the recommendation for plug, then tease out the hole until its just big enough to take the plug.
I am going to start taking pictures again, I need some for my company web site/facebook page as well, but it will let me demonstrate what I am talking about when these things come up
Last edited by soundood; 28th November 2016 at 22:32.
I prefer resin fix as you don't know where the edges of the blocks are and expanding anchors can break the blocks, but I've used these a few times and not had any problems with them.
here are some pictures that I guess demonstrate what I need to do sometimes, this boiler was in a cupboard in the bathroom, I needed to access the cables to sort a fault, now I couldnt get in through the door of the cupboard, and going in via the bathroom would have meant going through the tiles with a lot of making good,
solution? go in through the bedroom next door, cut the access panel, go in there and sort out the fault, seal it back up again, Landlord nearly choked when I tod him what needed to be done, once it was finished, he thanked me for not destroying his bathroom (he had only put in 6 months earlier)
this was all charged on hourly rate, I was in and out in 3 hours, job done.
Last edited by soundood; 28th November 2016 at 22:44.
dood, I can't help but comment here because I've spent 30 yrs in the building trade so I'll apologise if you take this the wrong way....
Did you cut out that PB with a blind fold on and one arm tied behind your back ? Why the wavey lines ? Surely, the straight edge of a level and a multi saw would have done a neater, cleaner job and made that patching up not require what looks like a few pound of filler ?
I turned up and they had no heating, job had to be done, and yes I didnt have my multitool (I only have small van so only carry what I need for the day)
your right its a mess, cut with a hacksaw blade in a towel, got in there and job done, sealed up again, went back and sanded and painted area later in the day.
the point is I guess is you dont need fancy tools, you also dont need straight cuts, as the board is going back in, whatever the shape.
no offence taken, job was done, my customer was happy.
Half way through getting this sorted. Write up to follow but the long and short of it is I got in a pro and I'm glad I did
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