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Thread: Omega Speedmaster identification help if possible please?

  1. #1
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    Omega Speedmaster identification help if possible please?

    Good evening TZers,

    I just wondered if there could be any advice about this watch, i think I may have the opportunity to buy it and have been dithering around Speedmasters for a month or so.

    A bit of background - I’ve moved workshops to different premises and one of the chaps that used to work in the unit before me pops in now and again when he’s passing. He noticed some watch pictures I have up in the office and said “I’ve got one like that, sat in the drawer for years, don’t even wear it” he pointed to a Speedmaster Moonwatch from the 60’s! He bought a Rolex, it didn’t keep time well and took it back to be looked at. He got another one. That didn’t keep time either. He took it back and exchanged it for the Omega and some cash back. He used to beat metal for a living and wore it all the time!

    He said he’d bring it in for me to look at. Low and behold, he did so today.

    Are there any resident experts that can help me out with any info on it and it’s value? I think he’s going to be surprised how much it’s worth. I have done some research but you know how it is, doubting yourself and the content of the internet -



















































































    If I do happen to pick this up for a good price (I will be absolutely straight with the guy, i’ve already told him these sell for 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 depending on model specifics) I’ll pop a bung in the fundraiser. I think it’s out of my price range.

    My down time is very limited this weekend with work and family commitments so I apologise if I don’t respond swiftly. Thanks for any help.

    If this isn’t the done thing, I’ll apologise and remove rather than start another blinkin’ thread war :)
    Last edited by peedog; 16th August 2019 at 21:15.

  2. #2
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    Wait a second, pics are crap, will delete and link individually


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  3. #3
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    S105.003-63 is the code for Ed White Speedmaster with calibre 321 movement, serious grail Speedmaster. Needs a more knowledgeable person than me if it is genuine one.

  4. #4
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    Check out the Speedmaster price guide here http://speedmaster101.com/price-chart-2/

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcworks View Post
    S105.003-63 is the code for Ed White Speedmaster with calibre 321 movement, serious grail Speedmaster. Needs a more knowledgeable person than me if it is genuine one.
    Thank you for the info. I came across that but kinda pinching myself that something like this could be chucked in a drawer! He brought it to me wrapped in a bit of kitchen tissue in his front jean pocket!

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    Nice barn find fantasy.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcworks View Post
    Check out the Speedmaster price guide here http://speedmaster101.com/price-chart-2/
    Wowsers

    105.003-63–90001700025500

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by peedog View Post
    Thank you for the info. I came across that but kinda pinching myself that something like this could be chucked in a drawer! He brought it to me wrapped in a bit of kitchen tissue in his front jean pocket!
    Hopefully people will be able to give opinions on dial, hands, bezel and movement originality. Does the guy have any paperwork for the watch?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcworks View Post
    Hopefully people will be able to give opinions on dial, hands, bezel and movement originality. Does the guy have any paperwork for the watch?
    No, none. When I asked he said “Never used to keep hold of anything like that”. I showed him a box set for a modern Speedmaster that sold for £390 on the bay and his jaw dropped

  10. #10
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    So presumably you will tell the owner of it’s proper value before you purchase the watch from him?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyman View Post
    So presumably you will tell the owner of it’s proper value before you purchase the watch from him?
    Indeed. I will also tell him to take it to be appraised properly as their is no substitute for seeing something in the flesh. I’ll offer to go with him as well if he’s unsure about how to deal with it. Quick thought is Haywood on here, but I don’t want him thinking I’m sending it someone I “know” to pull the wool over his eyes.

  12. #12
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    On first inspection it looks OK to me. The obvious problem is that the bezel isn’t the original one, that’ll have a significant hit on the value (say2-3k) less than if it had a nice original one. The bracelet alone is the best part of 2.5-3k, although it should be a 7912 rather than a 1035 which is slightly later. The no.6 endlinks are period correct though and more than half the value of the bracelet. If you’ve not had a real expert chime in by the morning I’ll give you a better answer after I’ve looked in MWO.
    Last edited by HookedSeven; 16th August 2019 at 21:59.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by HookedSeven View Post
    On first inspection it looks OK to me. The obvious problem is that the bezel isn’t the original one, that’ll have a significant hit on the value (say2-3k) less than if it had a nice original one. The bracelet alone is the best part of 2.5-3k, although it should be a 7912 rather than a 1035 which is slightly later. The no.6 endlinks are period correct though and more than half the value of the bracelet. If you’ve not had a real expert chime in by the morning I’ll give you a better answer after I’ve looked in MWO.
    Thank you very much, much appreciated

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by peedog View Post
    Thank you very much, much appreciated
    Looking a bit more the crown is wrong too I think. Probably should be 24 tooth and have the flat foot Omega logo. The pushers might therefore be wrong too, but I don’t have a good eye for judging those. Ask him if it was serviced and if he got any parts back if it was !

    And edit to add, the movement SN would be too late for a 63. It works for a 65. I wonder if it’s the caseback that’s wrong. I don’t know why the three looks different. Maybe that’s completely normal but maybe not. I’ll try and help better tomorrow.
    Last edited by HookedSeven; 16th August 2019 at 22:17.

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    I’d suggest you post it on omegaforums.net too. There are some very knowledgeable people over there and they’re a friendly bunch.

    Between here and there you’ll get a load of useful pointers to value.

    As already stated the Bezel is wrong. It should be a Dot Over Ninety rather than Dot Next Ninety

  16. #16
    Some excellent information there. I have one of these and couldn't offer much other than I can see no obvious variation from mine other than the later bezel. Did he buy this new? Two Rolex and then this seem odd choices for someone who would then wear them while beating metal!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by HookedSeven View Post
    Looking a bit more the crown is wrong too I think. Probably should be 24 tooth and have the flat foot Omega logo. The pushers might therefore be wrong too, but I don’t have a good eye for judging those. Ask him if it was serviced and if he got any parts back if it was !

    And edit to add, the movement SN would be too late for a 63. It works for a 65. I wonder if it’s the caseback that’s wrong. I don’t know why the three looks different. Maybe that’s completely normal but maybe not. I’ll try and help better tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by NigeG View Post
    I’d suggest you post it on omegaforums.net too. There are some very knowledgeable people over there and they’re a friendly bunch.

    Between here and there you’ll get a load of useful pointers to value.

    As already stated the Bezel is wrong. It should be a Dot Over Ninety rather than Dot Next Ninety
    Quote Originally Posted by Jdh1 View Post
    Some excellent information there. I have one of these and couldn't offer much other than I can see no obvious variation from mine other than the later bezel. Did he buy this new? Two Rolex and then this seem odd choices for someone who would then wear them while beating metal!
    Thank you for all the replies and info. I’ll ask him for more detail and history. I too cringed when he said he was a metal beater and wore it all the time!

    I think I’ve received enough info to suggest this could be something worth a lot of money, so I’ll let him know what I’ve been told here and recommend he gets it properly appraised. Anyone know anywhere near Berkshire who would offer such a service?

    Thank you TZ and Eddie for the platform.

  18. #18
    Craftsman HookedSeven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peedog View Post
    Thank you for all the replies and info. I’ll ask him for more detail and history. I too cringed when he said he was a metal beater and wore it all the time!

    I think I’ve received enough info to suggest this could be something worth a lot of money, so I’ll let him know what I’ve been told here and recommend he gets it properly appraised. Anyone know anywhere near Berkshire who would offer such a service?

    Thank you TZ and Eddie for the platform.
    You’ve got so many images that you can get an excellent “appraisal” over on Omega Forums, and I’m not sure you’ll get much better from anyone local. If the owner is considering getting it serviced then it should definitely go to Simon Freese who’s located in Essex. He’s THE guy for working on vintage Speedmasters, not just the guy in the UK, but the guy anywhere. He’d give you a perfect evaluation of what’s what too, but not sure he’d give a valuation if that’s what you’re after ?

    Oh and that odd 3 in the caseback markings looks correct. The -63 is less common than the later ones too, but it does raise a question about the movement S/N which is later and is in range for a -65.
    Last edited by HookedSeven; 17th August 2019 at 07:11.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by HookedSeven View Post
    You’ve got so many images that you can get an excellent “appraisal” over on Omega Forums, and I’m not sure you’ll get much better from anyone local. If the owner is considering getting it serviced then it should definitely go to Simon Freese who’s located in Essex. He’s THE guy for working on vintage Speedmasters, not just the guy in the UK, but the guy anywhere. He’d give you a perfect evaluation of what’s what too, but not sure he’d give a valuation if that’s what you’re after ?

    Oh and that odd 3 in the caseback markings looks correct. The -63 is less common than the later ones too, but it does raise a question about the movement S/N which is later and is in range for a -65.
    I echo this about Simon Freese.

    http://www.simonfreesewatchmakers.com
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  20. #20
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    It’s a nice looking thing and the serial, dial and hands are right for a -65 Ed White from mid 1967. If it is indeed a -65 and it looks like it then the 1035 bracelet is right too, these were added by the dealer not factory and are usually a little earlier than the head so second quarter 67 would make sense. Normally 1035s have 516 end links though, and there are fake No6s out there so those would require closer inspection.

    The case has been pretty heavily polished which isn’t great and will cap the eventual value and the flat foot crown has been swapped at service. Pushers too but those are less of an issue IMO. The caseback and bezel are a problem and materially affect the value significantly, the crown less so though those can be £400+ to find these days. That is deffo a -63 back, the -65 case wasn’t made by HF. On the other hand the bracelet is a big plus.

    Value wise I would be thinking a grand or two under the SP101 Running price plus maybe £2,500 for the bracelet & end links if original No 6s, so circa £8-10K all in IMO. Of the 2 big issues, the caseback may be trickiest to fix. -65 casebacks are out there but are much more rarely seen than DON bezels, which are available at £2-3K for a presentable one, £1-2K for a grotty beaten up one. If you can find a -65 caseback, I would guess another grand minimum would be needed to secure it.
    Last edited by Padders; 17th August 2019 at 10:28.

  21. #21
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    Omega Speedmaster identification help if possible please?

    Thank you for all the great info everyone. I will look into Simon Freese and show the owner this thread.

    Annoyingly, part of my route today took me from Berkshire to Dagenham, with a bit of organisation and time I could have arranged to take it to Essex.

    I appreciate everyone’s input and by the look of things, so will the owner.

    Thanks again all and I’ll keep the thread updated where I can, for those interested.


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    Last edited by peedog; 13th October 2019 at 19:34.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padders View Post
    It’s a nice looking thing and the serial, dial and hands are right for a -65 Ed White from mid 1967. If it is indeed a -65 and it looks like it then the 1035 bracelet is right too, these were added by the dealer not factory and are usually a little earlier than the head so second quarter 67 would make sense. Normally 1035s have 516 end links though, and there are fake No6s out there so those would require closer inspection.

    The case has been pretty heavily polished which isn’t great and will cap the eventual value and the flat foot crown has been swapped at service. Pushers too but those are less of an issue IMO. The caseback and bezel are a problem and materially affect the value significantly, the crown less so though those can be £400+ to find these days. That is deffo a -63 back, the -65 case wasn’t made by HF. On the other hand the bracelet is a big plus.

    Value wise I would be thinking a grand or two under the SP101 Running price plus maybe £2,500 for the bracelet & end links if original No 6s, so circa £8-10K all in IMO. Of the 2 big issues, the caseback may be trickiest to fix. -65 casebacks are out there but are much more rarely seen than DON bezels, which are available at £2-3K for a presentable one, £1-2K for a grotty beaten up one. If you can find a -65 caseback, I would guess another grand minimum would be needed to secure it.


    Now that is an appraisal, look no further op.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyman View Post
    So presumably you will tell the owner of it’s proper value before you purchase the watch from him?
    OP mentions this in his original post, not everyone thinks like you.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padders View Post
    Normally 1035s have 516 end links though, and there are fake No6s out there so those would require closer inspection.
    1035 originally came with 506 which are pretty difficult to find (516 was correct on the much more common 1039).

    The no.6 endlinks look absolutely good to me.

    Otherwise that’s the kind of appraisal I wish I could give off the cuff. There’s always so much more to learn.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by HookedSeven View Post
    1035 originally came with 506 which are pretty difficult to find (516 was correct on the much more common 1039).

    The no.6 endlinks look absolutely good to me.

    Otherwise that’s the kind of appraisal I wish I could give off the cuff. There’s always so much more to learn.
    Yes you are quite right, the 516 is 20mm for the Pro, the 506 is 19mm for the Ed White.

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